Re: Linn - discussion thread

[WongKN]

WM, do you mind sharing what the components are in the rest of your system; amps, speakers, etc ?

[wingman]

Hi Wong...

Sharing ...as my Avatar signifies, the heart of my gear;


cheers

[WongKN]

A nice, competent system. I would think your digital is not that far behind your Rega in terms of SQ. But the LP12, when properly set-up, should rocket you a fair distance ahead. Your headache will then be where to find money to fuel your upgrade desires. I think if you don't want to touch the LP12, you probably need to upgrade the amp. Sorry to start injecting poison so soon !

[bassraptor]

Be careful of this guy, Siva ... KN has got predictive input ... ... once he writes it down, it is done ...

[wingman]

Wong...

Thanks. Tailoring the system to suit my SQ taste buds. The AMP was acquired a few months back. It has taken the SQ level a few notches up from my previous AMP, also a NAD. The new AMP gives me wider coverage and the 9.2's are waltzing.

Occasionally, my PC subwoofer comes into play for specific music that I listen.

Had a taste of NAD's from my school days listening to my Uncle's Hifi system, since then got the NAD blood in me. Will take your pointers.

SJ...

Power of persuasion.... never the less....will take this slow and steady enjoying what i have invested in...even my other half is getting involved....sort of a critic and adviser.

Have been readingf up on the LP12...wow it has gone through some major transformation.....tonearm to bearing and anyhting in between.

Was having a casual chat with a LP12 owner ( who has seen the likes of Rega / Thorens ) , he was relating that the new springs are a bit rigid compared to the earlier version. Suggested I stick with the older version of the springs, better in terms of musicality.

The names are way peculiar as well, CIRKUS, AKITO, ITTOK...sounding like some Japanese cartoon characters. Had a good laugh.

But his eventual advice was get the setup right on the dot, the right tonearm and the cartridge. The Turntable would sing to your hearts content. Suggested that I go with MC carts - Denon DL 103.

There are clone Power supply boards as well, Hercules, Hercules 2 or Valhalla. Moving out to external casing is another option.

As syou have said the upgrade path is endless but one needs to know when its enough. But, we humans...not satisfied...the " what if " dilemma...

Any eventual advice ?

Thank you.

cheers

[cmboy]

Was having a casual chat with a LP12 owner ( who has seen the likes of Rega / Thorens ) , he was relating that the new springs are a bit rigid compared to the earlier version. Suggested I stick with the older version of the springs, better in terms of musicality.

IMHO, Thats hogwash! I suppose you'll like a car with old suspension springs too...lovely ride in the country soon?

[wingman]

Hi CM...

Thanks for you descriptive comparison.Presume you had your s upgraded. To me, every view is right in their own respect.

Will take it at face value, try it out myself with the exisitng springs and move a notch up with changes where its needed.

This paticular TT comes with the original specfication. Gives me the option to explore and compare. Nothing beats experience, right.

Wow, price for these little upgrades are really a "Gold Mine" in MY. The springs ( new ) are going for a few hundred.

cheers

[zulkifar]

Hi Wingman,


It is interesting to note some of the comments made about
the LP12. Obviously the Linn doesn’t have too many friends. Having owned TTs
and LP12s’ over the past 3 decades or so, let me share my views.


Apart from the inner, outer platter, bearings, lid, springs
and belt, the Linn offers tremendous options in terms of parts and components,
so much so it may no longer qualify as an LP12! Therefore you can upgrade,
customise and modify; basically tailor make the deck to your taste and budget.


No doubt what started out as a few hundred pounds in the
70’s is now well over ten thousand pounds but if you had followed the trail, it
won’t be as painful. It’s hard to say at which point but like all things hifi,
the LP12 is no exception to the law of diminishing returns. To say that the
deck is costly is not accurate. It becomes expensive because you can mount a
RM15k arm and a RM10k cartridge on it but on the other hand, you can also get
away with a RM500 arm and a rm800 cartridge with excellent results. A new plinth
is about GBP250, felt mat GBP16, belt GBP18, set of springs with grommets GBP12
and lid at GBP123. I believe these are sensible prices.


What many claim as exorbitant is the Keel subchassis and
Radikal power supply; a combination that costs almost GBP 5k. May be this has to
do with intellectual cost and bragging rights rather than the price of
materials. I guess Linn is also trying to reach the upper strata of the high
end market by pricing their products as such.
Whatever it is, these upgrades do make the LP12 sound better. It is
however, not something you would want to lose sleep over because as you know be
it amplifiers, speakers, cables or whatever, the sound can always be better.
There is simply no end. The enjoyment should actually be in the music and not
in the equipment.


Compared to the later incarnations, the earlier LP12s tend
to be finicky when setting up and don’t last the distance. The springs were too
compliant and wobble after some time. However, with the new black springs it
can stay in tune for at least a couple of years (that’s long enough for the
next upgrade!), unless you move or fiddle with it, like bouncing it all too
often just for kicks.


What upsets it most are lateral forces on the springs and
rubber grommets. If the sideway movements are too strong, it will go out of
tune. 3 miserable bolts are all there is to hold the suspension and the heavy subchassis.
It’s a shortcoming in design which other TT designers have addressed. So the
best way to transport the LP12 is in its box. Some may say it’s OK if you
remove the platter but any violent movement of the subchassis may either bend
the bolts at the shaft or more often at the top plate. If you don’t have the
box, just make sure that subchassis doesn’t move sideways. To preserve the
bearing, the spindle must always be upright. Again, any violent lateral
movement may lead to a bent spindle.


Any LP12, irrespective of vintage can be made to sound good at
a small cost. Items to watch out for would be cracked plinth, faulty motor,
worn bearing, bent spindle and warped outer platter. Bent bolts and wavy top
plates are easy fixes. Otherwise, it’s just the belt and springs to worry about
and of course, getting that mystical bounce which has been subjected to more
myth than fact.


Rest assured getting the LP12 is a sound decision which you
won’t regret. It’s surely the best selling TT of all time and you are joining
the thousands worldwide. If at all after setting it up properly, you
regrettably decide that it is not to your taste, there is always a ready
second-hand market for the Linn.


The LP12 may be overrated but the fact that over the years
it remains recommended by reviewers on both sides of the Atlantic say a lot
about its quality in sound reproduction. Enjoy...

[WongKN]

Wingman,
'That' shop used to have an outboard power supply for the LP12. Not cheap but not stupendous pricing too. Something you might want to think about. (I know, more poison..... )

[wingman]

Zul...

Interesting and excellent pointers. Sure would help me with the LP12. It should benefit a wider audience. Thanks.

Wong...

Looks like "THAT SHOP" has lots of goodies .....the poison is flowing... but I have the antidote.... where's SJ...

cheers

[Wan Azami Hamzah]

A properly set up LP12 will blow every brand new tt below 10k into the weeds, anytime. And will last a few generations at that.
With the Ekos and Lingo you are up there in the upper end off vinyl replay. Check out the current Linn prices of your rig. You have to spend that kind of money to improve your current deck man, and maybe you won't.
Consider giving your Linn and the rest of your system justice by looking to improve your listening room acoustics instead. Many people purchase expensive gear and put it in a less than desirable environment.
Cheers

[alphadog467]

Wingman,

Congratulations on your recent purchase!

From my experience with the Linn, an external PSU will give a huge boost to the sound especially the bass (taut & solid). Although I have a Lingo, I am using a locally made PSU which I bought from Audio Image. For the price that I paid, the results exceeded my expectations! I am no expert, but to my ears, an external PSU offers a significant improvement. There's a recent posting for a used Lingo - go check it out.

[cmboy]

Whoa!..the guy just (about to) involve with the Lp12, now its more potent poison with Lingo and other 3rd party outboard supply. This is only ONE department that can improve the sound and is near ultimate, short of the latest Radikal DC motor upgrade which is still relatively new costing quite a sum. The Lingo will and can beat any Valhalla or Hercules PSU my miles in its very different and enhanced circuitry for the LP12 motor. I know the electronics circuitry difference and how it'll beat the older Valhalla design by miles. Other outboard supply?..I wonder what circuitry they've used. I can only think its transformer based or another AC frequency regenerator in another guise. Of course the Valhalla and Hercules isn't exactly perfect in every manner but does serve the purpose and hopefully doesn't end up in premature failure. Having said that, whatever the LP12 owner wishes and find any of it entirely musical or superior, so be it.

[WongKN]

Heheheheh.... WM, I have more shit to stir but I will let you settle down first and get the LP12 up and running. Experience a bit. Then I will set your expectations right with regards to SQ of the LP12 vs digital....

[cmboy]

Caught you saying:

Then I will set your expectations right with regards to SQ of the LP12 vs digital....

Like WWE Superstar "The Miz" sayz... Really?... Really????
Come to think of the motor department, the common LP12 motor is really a shit pot motor. Lots of Japanese TT motors are leagues and quality ahead in design, far superior build quality and best of all, works on low voltage. Took them 3-4 decades to find something else to replace it and at a cost that can cause a heart attack. Have seen tons of Japanese budget TT's (yep, those plasticky ones) with far superior motor units inside. Funny they used a Philips/Airpax/Premotec motor and a Japanese make tonearm. Perhaps the Jappo's never wanted to sell them any of their turntable motors..

[WongKN]

My intention is to help him with the right expectations. I personally believe a playback system must be taken as a whole. While I am a total believer of the superiority in SQ of vinyl vs digital, I also am well aware of the pitfalls. Due to the complexities involved, we like to believe in isolation. I.e. we say vinyl playback with a well set-up LP12 will beat most digital playback, including high-res. But is the answer so straightforward ?

But as I said, let WM settle down first. Experience the LP12 a bit. Then only I confuse him somemore.

[wingman]

Wong...

Ha Ha Ha ....keep the poison flowing....yeah...with this AKITO, ITTOK, Keel or Krell or something.......Valhalla, Hercules or Hercules 2 ...Lingo...majik.. trampoline....

Yeap...give me time to settle down.....jokes a side....I am going to enjoy these LP12 escapade with all these input...

cheers

[bassraptor]

Famous last words....

[WongKN]

I agree !

[wingman]

Yeah...lah ......will go along....with the flow..... .

[cmboy]

Sometimes I think its like suddenly owning a excellent vintage Jaguar car, something somewhat rare, the never before thrill, excitement, high enthusiasm, high anxiety and highest expectation is going to satisfy for a long time to come. It have a timeless classic appeal and ooze a great deal of class that other TT's don't seem to sport. Of course all boosted by hype and rating. Change especially the plinth to something else better or re-finish the plinth and the timeless classic looks awesome, really awesome!

[wingman]

CM...

In that perspective, reminds me of a Rotel TT that I chanced upon, in mint condition. It was similar to a NOS TT.

Anyway was contemplating to upgrade my TT for a while and been doing lots of reading on the various TT's and shortlisted the Linn / Thorens base on its design, input from owners and potential owners.

The hours poured into the TT by the owners to get that "SQ" and the list goes on. Apart from all the hype and the upgradability options, the design of the TT was well thought out and its moving to accomodate with the times. ( new springs, new PSU ) Price is moving with the times as well.

The look and feel ( as you said ) is a timeless classic.

Have a few rework options on the plinth ( the DIY way ), options on the drawing board, the re-finish of the plinth, bottom tray ( tarpolin - DIY version ) and the internal support structure.

Not touching the tonearm nor the PSU, that stays until I have a benchmark or if there is a need to upgrade.

As you said its a keeper.

cheers

[cmboy]

Caught you saying:

Have a few rework options on the plinth ( the DIY way ), options on the drawing
board, the re-finish of the plinth, bottom tray ( tarpolin - DIY version ) and the internal support structure.
As you said its a keeper.

Any attempt in that area is even more of another "black art" apart from tonearm change or tweaks. The end result and ultimate synergy is highly subjective for countless reasons. IMHO, its NOT as simple as simply thought of.
Yes, its a keeper provided one is an avid vinyl enthuasist and enjoy it for all intent and purpose. Pure waste if looked upon entirely as a collectible or another piece of furniture.

[wingman]

Yeah... you caught me there..... guilty.

Yes... it's a "Black Art"....indeed. Have these materials with me. Adding braces for better stability. Don't like it revert. Does not need screwing nor changing the exterior of the TT.


Cheers

[cmboy]

Adding braces for better stability.

Pssssst!...Set it all in STONE!...RC Concrete!!!...just purrrrfect! No joke!

[wingman]

Adding braces for better stability.

Pssssst!...Set it all in STONE!...RC Concrete!!!...just purrrrfect! No joke!

Jokes a side... .

cheers

[wingman]

Took possesion of my LP12 over the weekend...Fluted Afromasia Plinth...dark woody tone....condition wise...nothing to complain.



If i am not mistaken it's an early 80's model....Valhalla PSU, changed to the latest bearings, new springs and the rest is standard standard fixtures.



The first listen on a AT95e cart ( apple to apple comparison - similar cart on my REGA TT ) was quite interesting SQ. Definetly a difference...a bit more punchy, detailed and clear.



The most important "Bounce"....has a teeny weeny sideways movement.



Did a simple oil job on the plinth and it looks stunning. Now its the platter, subplatter, arm board and the top plate that needs a bit of attention...looking jaded....any ideas on how to get the shine back....apart from changing to new



Thank you

[cmboy]

Nothing much you can do to the first 3 components other than wipe clean or polish off. Platter and sub is factory lacquered and age does make it a bit dull, not as prestine as a brand new one. The top plate must be fully dismantled (but you'll upset everything that was tuned before) and fully degreased to bring back the stainless steel lustre.

Fully redo the plinth, thats my own trade secret...my own piece is the most awesome..LOL!

[zulkifar]

Top plate: mask plinth and screws and use Autosol to polish. Better still, remove top plate altogether (a lot of work laa) and polish. Outer platter lip: use very fine steel wool polishing pads from Ace. Inner platter: aesthetically nothing necessary. Armboard: best to replace for looks (new logo) and SQ. Also use the bigger screws to mount.

[cmboy]

Sorry to retort, but I entirely disagree on the steel wool treatment (unless its really really bad and last resort due to long neglect) and polishing the top plate. Stainless steel can be thoroughly degreased with a quality chemical degreaser (household type kitchen use degreaser will do) to restore its lustre and original brush finish (as in this case of LP12 plate). Polishing or some abrasive action can (I say can, not surely) mar a brush finish to varying degrees. If insist on some scrubbing, 3M have a plastic fibre scouring pad that maybe used. Its different from the green pad and seems not to damage surfaces, especially good on teflon coated pots and pans. Alright, nevermind that, thats my view on restoring anything to its original prestine state (disregard removing scratches or other surface defects).
Autosol is actually abrasive and have the ability to shine up a brush finish surface to a high mirror finish.
Restoration is actually a trade art, but if anyone insists otherwise on other methods in restoration, I've nothing to say.

My view of restoration is the objective of bringing back the item to its original state, not really improving it but using careful discretion with improved products of today to put it all together that it looks prestine as if its just out of the factory (of course maybe with some defects that are uncurable or not to be touched). Also, restoration doesn't entirely mean lumping together repair, modifications, alterations and intended tweaks.
I've seen terrible looking top plates in my time that have blackish grime accumulated over the decades and a full stripdown minus all the attached bolts, motor, whatever, a proper degrease job and bath with clean water will restore a surgically clean and prestine finish to it.
Restoration is done first than can proceed to whatever is suits you.

I've already attained vast experience in DIY on quite a lot of restoration works to numerous antiques, very old furniture and other things I've collected for myself. LP12 is one of them.

[wingman]

Thanks CM and Zul....any specific names to these multitude of products that you guys have used.

On the first day, was a total wiped down of the platter ( in fact the whole TT ) with normal detergent and used Brasso on the platters and top plate....but still not good enough.

And the Blackish grime....

Got my work cut out for me during the long Raya break....until then its more LP's on the platter....


Thanks once again.

cheers

[cmboy]

Kao Magiclean is an excellent degreaser. You can find that bottle is most well stocked supermart (although I know one particular HYpermart never stocks this, dunno why).

Actually if soak the top plate in a solution of laundry powder (Maxclean?) and bleach for sometime, it'll also remove any organic stains and grime. Stainless steel is a very hardy material, unless you pour corrosive acid to it. Surely no-one will do that.
Brasso, Silvo, Autosol, T-cut, whatever...my no-no's for L12 anywhere normally.


Good luck!

[zulkifar]

Yes degreasing would be the first thing to do but for an 80's top plate, there are bound to be some surface oxidation and scratches that requires something stronger. Brasso is good but may not be strong enough so that's why Autosol may fit the bill. Don't scrub too hard. If you have polished your car, you get the idea. Hair line scratches will also go away. No doubt there will be some swirl marks but these are not very visible unless you take a very close look.
As for the platter, there is a thin coat of lacquer applied during the manufacturing process to preserve the shine. However, with time it discolours. On the outer platter lip it can really look bad. So in order to get back the shine, you will have to remove the lacquer. I recommend steel wool pads (not the type grandma uses) which comes in various grades from Ace Hardware. Use a very fine one. The highest grade is used for buffing. After you have removed the lacquer, you can then polish it to a shine and once in a while buff it with a clean cloth.
Elsewhere the platter is skimmed a few microns and that's the shine you get in some of the pictures from abroad. Unfortunately i have yet to find local expertise for the job.
The LP12 is not an antique which you want to preserve in its original condition so don't worry about trying out things which will make it look and sound better.

[wingman]

CM / Zul...

CM....was thinking twice of soaking the items in soap / bleach solution but your views just confirmed this weekends activity.

Zul....did the Autosol thingy...Last night ...apply...after a 10 minute wait ....a light scrub sure got it looking much better than day one.
My other half....just looks at me with amazement.... me sitting there and admiring the LP12. Sonically ... both of us agree the LP12 is better then all the TT's that have come across our Hifi stable. Each TT have their plus points, their followers and detractors as well.

It took me a while to consider upgrading my TT, after much reading, visiting the AV Fair and price factor of a new unit of the various makes decided to go for a pre-owned LP12.

Thanks.

Cheers

[cmboy]

To remove lacquer, I suggest to use paint stripper gel which can be obtained from most hardware shops. From past experience, its virtually the perfect stuff for removing paint or lacquer from wood or metal. Rest assured is safe to use on the LP12 metal platter. I will NEVER use any abrasive action to remove old paint or lacquer as its surely to result in scouring especially soft and malleable metals.

BUT!..using paint stripper is TO BE DONE WITH EXTREME CARE and NO kids around the job area. Stripper gel is VERY CORROSIVE to human skin and it BURNS with extreme pain on contact!

Nevertheless I've used this stuff frequently on various jobs and the results are excellent depending how meticulous you handle the job throughout. The rest of the finishing is up to your own skill and knowledge.

[wingman]

Another alternative...is to spray WD40 on to the sub- platter , platter and top plate. Let it soak overnight. Wipe and Wash.

This is something that I always perform on my CAR Engine on a regular intervals. Not soak overnight. Clears of all the stubborn oil and grime.

cheers

[CT-Boy]

wingman,
WD40 has over 2000 uses, you just added another one!

[cmboy]

Personally I'll not use WD40 other than for attempting to remove stubborn nuts and bolts. Yes, others may have two thousand uses for it but not on my LP12 in this case.

Anyway, over the weekend, I experimented with some very mild and careful tweaks to the internals by applying sparingly some damping pads to "non live" areas and now monitoring the sonic quality. Live areas are the platter, sub platter, sub chassis, tonearm and armboard. Initial playback does show result in better focus, a more golden midrange tone, the guitar and piano tone is even more realistic, but sense there's some shortfall somewhere along the lower registers. Win some, loose some. Longer sessions may tell more...see how lah, afterall its all easily reversible if it all doesn't work out.

[CT-Boy]

cmboy,
To some, WD40 is a 'cure all' fluid which generally should fit the 'normal' requirements.. there are however specific fluids for specific/specialised functions.. and they can be costly.. (?) hence the WD40 applications..

[cmboy]

cmboy,
To some, WD40 is a 'cure all' fluid which generally should fit the 'normal' requirements.. there are however specific fluids for specific/specialised functions.. and they can be costly.. (?) hence the WD40 applications..

There's no denying that spray can work wonders, but this is about degreasing in particular, and personally I'm not in favor of using exactly this product for cleaning top plates. I had suggested Kao Magiclean and that bottle is only some RM6-7, almost very safe to use and will not have oily residue or dissolve lacquered surfaces. Yes, this product can also be used for degreasing engines, but YMMV.

[wingman]

Anyway, over the weekend, I experimented with some very mild and careful tweaks to the internals by applying sparingly some damping pads to "non live" areas and now monitoring the sonic quality. Live areas are the platter, sub platter, sub chassis, tonearm and armboard. Initial playback does show result in better focus, a more golden midrange tone, the guitar and piano tone is even more realistic, but sense there's some shortfall somewhere along the lower registers. Win some, loose some. Longer sessions may tell more...see how lah, afterall its all easily reversible if it all doesn't work out.

Hi CM...

So..how is the SQ after many days of dry run with your tweak ? Prefer the new SQ or the SQ before the tweak ?

After much reading...the only tweak that's gone on to the LP12 is the Corner Brace. The obvious difference is the rounded of bass and clarity is slightly cleaner. All that is to my ears...but will see how it develops over the weekend listening session.

cheers

[hangleng]

wingman,

May I know how do you add the corner brace? What kind of material to use and do you use any adhesive to joint the corner braces?

[cmboy]

I've achieved better focus and a more golden tone to some common instruments. The music is much more alive and makes you always sit up to have your undivided attention. I've already had numerous little internal tweaks that already worked well in the past. The new tweaks added on what I just mentioned.

Corner braces are best implimented in its original manner of being adhered into a machined groove. I'm just not sure any other post job of bolting or adhering solid corner blocks or metal brace will improve things.

[wingman]

wingman,

May I know how do you add the corner brace? What kind of material to use and do you use any adhesive to joint the corner braces?

HL....

The picture given below is a sample of the corner brace which I have added on with screws. Can be purchased from most hardware shops. There are better alternatives which could be found from specialist wood work shops.



CM ...

Wow..good to know that the tweaks have got your undivided attention and most importantly you are enjoying the music much more.Unfortunately or fortunately my unit does not have the machined groove..so the alternative was the only option.

Cheers

[cmboy]

I'm very very afraid of overdoing tweaks, never a good thing.

The crux of the matter is, all this is equal to "voicing" the TT to your own very personal preferences and to suit the rest of the system and room acoustics. It'll never mean that my own tweaks are universal (maybe some are) and have stellar performance anywhere else. It doesn't work out like that.

[zulkifar]

Wingman,
Well done!
The corner braces should do your TT good because the edges of some of the early models are known to some apart. Whilst you are at it, why don't you add the wood corner triangles. Check out the Linn forums for sizes. Use a hot glue gun and a vice to get the triangles to stick hard at the corners. For the top left corner, you can epoxy (a weld is even better) a bolt to the bottom of your top plate. You will then have the strengthening bolt and that will make your 80's plinth like 21st century, well almost!

[cmboy]

Wingman, I'm eager to hear what improvements you may have heard since doing the braces.

[wingman]

Wingman,
Well done!
The corner braces should do your TT good because the edges of some of the early models are known to some apart. Whilst you are at it, why don't you add the wood corner triangles. Check out the Linn forums for sizes. Use a hot glue gun and a vice to get the triangles to stick hard at the corners. For the top left corner, you can epoxy (a weld is even better) a bolt to the bottom of your top plate. You will then have the strengthening bolt and that will make your 80's plinth like 21st century, well almost!

Hi Zul....

Fristly Selamat Hari Raya to you and your family.

Read about the wood corner triangles. Presume you did the similar thing for your LP12 ? You Diy-ed yourself or bought the triangles ? Where can one buy them locally ?

The strengthing of the corner was my intention when i got my hands on the LP12. Suprising, the plinth is still rock steady even thought its an early 80's production unit.

A thorough clean up job of the plinth and application of wood oil have given a dark reddish tone to the plinth.

CM...

In terms of SQ after the addition of the corner braces...the Bass is much rounded...firm....much better clarity... very engaging. Playing one of my favourite vocal LP's - Joe Cocker is thrilling...lively and weighted. You get the deep voice feeling and instruments being played is clearly defined. For something less then RM3 worth of Corner Braces..is it worth it IT SURE IS.

As Zul indicated...adding of the Triangle wooden braces would bring it a notch up again. Got to agree with him, as many forums reflect his views apart from the Linn Forum.

In the UK / US...the early production plinths are being sent to dealers for add on jobs for corner braces. one for strengthing of the structure and to derive better SQ. As you know the new plinths are with the braces. so there should be some level of truth to this idea.

But there are still detractors who prefer the SQ without the corner braces.But end of the day it's every individual's understanding and preference, I guess.

Yes, I am pleased with the outcome.

cheers

[cmboy]

Glad to hear its worked out for the best for you. Yes, I've heard of people who like their LP12 in various stages of upgrades from earliest to the latest specs. Personally I prefer somewhere middle of the road and I think thats where mine stands at the moment. I won't see myself plonking for the Keel or Ekos arm. The price is just too much and silly.

Fortunately, there's this Chris Harban custom plinth from Woodsong Audio at a price likely within reach and if there's any opportunity to have it, that'll be the one and probably the last.

[zulkifar]

Wingman,
Thank you for the kind wishes.
I did the wood triangles on my own because I am a bit into DIY. It's sawn from the corners of plank. Linn uses high quality plywood, something you cannot get from the local hardware store. I also have the new Linn so it does make matters easier.
Some upgrades have been well received because of the sonic benefits but some not so. Best is to keep abreast of the feedback in the forums from owners and dealers. After a while you will be able to identify the reliable ones.
Since you are working on the plinth or the structure of the TT, you might as well get it to optimum. Getting the wood triangles and the strengthening bolt certainly helps.

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