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50 Tips to get the best from your Hi-Fi or Home Cinema

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50 Tips to get the best from your Hi-Fi or Home Cinema Empty 50 Tips to get the best from your Hi-Fi or Home Cinema

Post by DrWho Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:42 am

50 Tips to get the best from your Hi-Fi or Home Cinema


CLICK HERE
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Post by Happy Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:16 am

Very useful tips. Thanks for the link! Very Happy

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Post by Chewkw Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:43 pm

Thank you... is really helpful. Very Happy
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Post by scwong Mon Nov 04, 2013 2:50 pm

Have you ever wonder why some equipments only come with a two pin plug without the earth and fuse? Throughout this life time, I have not experience blowing any 13A fuse in the power cord.  Hence, it's surprising why we would ever need a fuse in the first place.

I have taken out/modded all my power cords with direct connection of life wire without the fuse.  You will hear the improvement in your set-up and save money on exotic fuses.  If you opt to do that, you must also prepare to bear the risk (haven't we already knew that most equipments have internal fuses?).  Try for yourself and you be amazed. Do unplug all equipments if not in use.  Just a word of caution.

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Post by DrWho Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:54 pm

The US, Australian and European plugs also come with 3 pins and do not have a fuse just like the 2 pins Japanese plug. The British plug is required by their CEI to have a fuse. You are correct in saying most audio equipment have an internal fuse. This fuse is rated for the equipment and is seldom rated at 13amp. That is why you have not experienced the 13amp fuse blowing, the internal fuse will blow first.
Quite a number of Audiophiles DIY to bypass this 13amp fuse to improve the sound quality. For the hardcore audiophile, they prefer to use the US plugs for two reasons, no fuse and also US plug has a better sonic quality than UK plug.
Electricity is dangerous to play with, so take caution when you want to bypass the 13amp fuse.
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Post by mthoi Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:36 pm

Dr Who - thank you for the tips.  

I am starting to experiment with IC and speaker wires recently.  Silver seems to gell well with tube-based systems. 

I have changed all my IC to DIY silver OFC cables, silver OFC speaker wires for the mid/tweeter and silver plated copper OFC speaker wires for the  bass-unit.

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Post by DrWho Mon Nov 04, 2013 4:45 pm

Wise choice mthoi. As you know almost all my cables, except for the high frequency clock cable, are of heavily plated silver cable. Great nuance details.Very Happy
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Post by scwong Mon Nov 04, 2013 7:28 pm

in need of more tips to improve set-up. Why some passive preamp can't drve a dedicated power amp but has no prob driving an intergrated feeding into its amp-in slot?

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Post by adrian4454 Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:06 am

Hi Bro Wong,
    Good day, must be something to do with those Exposure amp u r playing around with?
I am sure it got to do with the input impedance and input sensitivity of the power amp. It needs to match the Pre amp.

From what I read, and try to understand, the input impedance(at Power amp) must be much higher than a output impedance of the pre-amp.

Your meaning of cant drive the dedicated power amp, refer to the sound is flat and not dynamic from the speaker? It does get loud when you max the volume from the passive amp?

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Post by scwong Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:51 am

Hi Adrian,

That's exactly how it sounded, flat and not dynamic.  It just get louder when u max the volume.  I guess the safest bet would be to check the output impedance of the matching brand of the pre-amp (similar brand) and use that as a guide to purchase a pre-amp of other brands.  Thanks a million.

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Post by DrWho Wed Nov 06, 2013 3:54 pm

An experienced and qualified technician should be able to modify your power amp to the matching impedence of your preamp. The speakers could also be the cause.
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Post by noodle88 Wed Nov 06, 2013 5:27 pm

Hi Scwong,

Are you using AVC /TVC as passive preamp? If so, most source can't drive these transformer volume control properly. You need to find out wherether your source have enough gain, drive and headroom to drive the poweramp with passive preamp.

Cheers,
Cheah
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Post by scwong Wed Nov 06, 2013 6:46 pm

hi 88,
Its a eva ldr popularised by diyparadise. I'm a layman. So, when u mentioned about measuring drive of d source, sorry to say that my kepala starts to pusing. Very Happy So, my best bet would be to look at d spec of d preamp of my choice n try to match it with d pwr amp. All solely based on the advice of our learned forumers and thru literature found in the net.

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Post by adrian4454 Thu Nov 07, 2013 10:01 am

Hi Bro Wong,
     88 mean of source will be ur CDP, Media player, or Turntable phono amp RCA outputs. Passive Pre amp only offer attenuation of voltage, no gain. So if the source output isnt powerful enough, it doesnt produce good enough current to "drive" the passive pre amp. Either you do the void warranty technical change like Dr.Who suggest, or change power amp or pre-amp. From what I do understand, source output rarely goes above 2.5V, those that did are mostly high end stuff. Most normal stuff will be around 2V.

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Post by noodle88 Thu Nov 07, 2013 10:19 am

Hi!

Yes, most CDP have an output of 2VRMS, except for those hiend player like DCS, ML they might have output of 5Vrms or even higher. As for phono pre, their output will be lower.

Thomas Mayer did have a write up for Gain, Headroom and power in his blog.
http://vinylsavor.blogspot.com/2011/01/gain-headroom-and-power.html?m=0


Hope this may help.


Cheers,
Cheah
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Post by mthoi Thu Nov 07, 2013 4:52 pm

Borrowed from Wikepedia/Audiogon :-




"If you think of your preamp as a source, and your power amp as a load, then you may consider that maximum power transfer can occur when the output impedance of the preamp matches the input impedance of the power amp. However, in high fidelity audio, it is typically considered optimum to have a source with low impedance connected to a load with high impedance. In that case, the power that can pass through the connection is limited by the higher impedance (so power transfer is not maximum), but the electrical voltage transfer is higher and less prone to corruption than if the impedances had been matched. 


When matching preamps to power amps, a general rule of thumb is for the load (amp) input impedance to be at least 10 times higher than the source (preamp) output impedance to provide a suitably flat frequency response. Many prefer using a minimum ratio closer to 20 to 1, or having an amp with input impedance 20 times or more greater than the preamp output impedance. 


With solid state preamps, this is generally not a problem since most have output impedance of only a few hundred ohms or less, while most SS amps have input impedance of at least 10K ohms. However, you must pay much closer attention when trying to match tubed preamps to SS amps, since many tubed preamps have an output impedance of several thousand ohms or greater. Another thing to watch is how the output impedance spec is reported, since it is sometimes limited to a measurement at a given frequency such as 1K Hz, while the actual output impedance may vary with frequency. It is not unusual for the output impedance of tubed preamps to rise significantly as the signal approaches a lower frequency of 20 Hz, because of the size of coupling capacitors used in the preamp. In these cases, a low frequency roll off can occur whereby, for the same power output, the lower frequencies drop in output compared to the rest of the frequency range, resulting in a loss of deep bass. 


The good news is that most tubed amps have sufficiently high input impedance to allow the use of most preamps, tubed or SS. Also, for SS power amps, input impedances of around 50K ohms and above are common and these amps should work well with the vast majority of tubed and SS preamps.


Only a couple of manufacturers make SS amps with input impedances of 10K ohms (e.g., McCormack DNA500), and a couple (such as Pass) make SS amps with input impedance of 20K ohms. These lower impedance amps would require careful matching with tubed preamps. If you are trying to match a preamp with one of these lower input impedance amps, you should try to find information on your preamp's output impedance throughout the entire frequency range. Some manufacturer's report this information and some do not. A good source is a Stereophile review, since JA commonly provides the information as part of his measurements. Others will likely have good suggestions I have missed, but this information should give you a good starting point."

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Post by Wikin Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:22 pm

scwong wrote:hi 88,
Its a eva ldr popularised by diyparadise. I'm a layman. So, when u mentioned about measuring drive of d source, sorry to say that my kepala starts to pusing. Very Happy So, my best bet would be to look at d spec of d preamp of my choice n try to match it with d pwr amp. All solely based on the advice of our learned forumers and thru literature found in the net.
Hi Wong, to explain in layman, the LDR combined with solid state amp will cause too much of loading to your source hence you get a flat sound. That LDR only has around 7Kohm impedance. Typical solid state amp has 10Kohm input. So parallel 10Kohm and 7Kohm, your source needs to drive a load around 4.1Kohm. Phew, if only your source could talk, it'll be cursing Laughing

cheers
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Post by 1541 Fri Nov 08, 2013 6:55 am

No fuse? that is a criminal!
The fuse is not attach to the cord itself ,but after the cord before it goes to mains transformer.
Open up the player,you can see fuse by tracing from the cords input.
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Post by scwong Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:22 pm

Hi All,
Tis is truly a great educational journey for me n certainly a mouthful one. This would surely b d 51st tip for improving yr system. My sincere heartfelt THANKS to all d SIFU.

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Post by adcomer Tue Nov 12, 2013 1:50 pm

I find that the power cord with 2 pin does give better sound compared to 3 pin. Is that due to the pin pass through the fuse while the 2 pin one does not have a fuse?

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Post by scwong Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:18 pm

I have modified the 3 pin plug by directly attaching the life wire to the pin, thereby the fuse has been taken off.  It did showed improvement.  Do read this thread in full especially comment by DrWho.  Something worth trying but do ensure that your equipment has its own internal protective fuse in place.  Again, be cautious as you are dealing with electricity.

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Post by scwong Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:23 pm

By the way, a forumer by the name of adrian4454 has tried it and he has indeed kind enough to brief me how to go about it.  That's a great idea to diy and save some money.

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