PC Based Audio Systems... Anyone here use them?

Chua, I got something new coming from US in about 2 weeks time. Well, it's not new actually, it's old stuff called the DTI or Digital Transmission Interface.

This device will take the SPdif or I2S signal off your digital source, reprocess and remove much of the jitter and output a largely jitter free signal to your DAC. But it works better with mid to high jitter digital sources and not so well with low jitter sources like the AudioGD CD-7SE.

Anyway, if you're interested, we can try it out when it arrives.

hope u guys like the audio-gd staff.

like to know the DTI more. u try behringer 2496 as well ?

Have not tried the Behringer but I read from Stereophile that the DTI actually degrades the sound of low jitter sources like the Mark Levinson 31.5 and Meridians when tested. So with a low jitter (or no jitter?) source like the CD-7SE, it's totally possible that the DTI might make the sound worse. But for mid to high jitter devices, it brings about a huge improvement.

The Stereophile article is here if interested: http://www.stereophile.com/features/368/index4.html

As usual and typically Stereophile, their writeups are amazingly comprehensive.

Let's have a session when the DTI arrives. My curiosity is making me crazy!

I'm going to get a pc based stereo system, with limited budget like 4-6k.
FYI , i'm new into audio. Hope i get it right.
Firstly i'm planning to get a harbeth p3, and a used integrated amplifier like
musical fidelity synthesis. I dont know if this is good or do i need it separate or just power amp?
With these setup which price range DAC should i look for?

I have read alot these few weeks, but i seem cant understand how to find a suitable
equipment for my usage.

Maradin wrote:
I'm going to get a pc based stereo system, with limited budget like 4-6k.
FYI , i'm new into audio. Hope i get it right.
Firstly i'm planning to get a harbeth p3, and a used integrated amplifier like
musical fidelity synthesis. I dont know if this is good or do i need it separate or just power amp?
With these setup which price range DAC should i look for?

I have read alot these few weeks, but i seem cant understand how to find a suitable
equipment for my usage.

Do you already have a PC with a PCI/PCI-E, USB, etc. sound card?

The P3 perform very well with Quad 34 306 or 33 303.

Maradin wrote:
I'm going to get a pc based stereo system, with limited budget like 4-6k.
FYI , i'm new into audio. Hope i get it right.
Firstly i'm planning to get a harbeth p3, and a used integrated amplifier like
musical fidelity synthesis. I dont know if this is good or do i need it separate or just power amp?
With these setup which price range DAC should i look for?

I have read alot these few weeks, but i seem cant understand how to find a suitable
equipment for my usage.

Well the computer based system is the same as any other systems - just that the transport is the computer itself.
You are complicating the fact that it has a specific usage but it is not.
It can be just like any other systems but with alot of convience and limitless possibilities and flexibility that edges over many other current technologies.

But after hearing a 24/192 vinyl rip, i think it very well maybe something that can coexist with an analogue setup.

Theaudiohub wrote:
But after hearing a 24/192 vinyl rip, i think it very well maybe something that can coexist with an analogue setup.

If done correctly, it can surpass many analogue set-up.

Recently replaced my 1Gb Kingston KHX6400D2LL/1G ram with a 512Mb and subsequently with a 256Mb. The improvement in the sound quality is noticeable. Current ram timing setting is as follow.

[img][https://servimg.com/view/13817543/34]

More ambience info retrieval than setting by SPD(3-3-3-6 16 2T)?

That sounds too 'techno' to me.

Due to imited disc space in my notebook, I am now streaming wireless to my notebook foobar2k. so far so good except the start up is s alittle slower.

for computer USB to sound LP, i think it is still a long long way to go.

chua55 wrote:That sounds too 'techno' to me.

Due to imited disc space in my notebook, I am now streaming wireless to my notebook foobar2k. so far so good except the start up is s alittle slower.

for computer USB to sound LP, i think it is still a long long way to go.

I am still learning the learning this 'techno ' stuff.

Mine is a dedicated computer transport with the OS stripped down to the barest minimum just enough for audio playback. The SQ surpassed that of two of my CDPs.

I have never played LP so I can't compare. But, there are other inmates from the Computer Audio Asylum who had and here is one from the PRC in his own words : - http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/pcaudio/messages/7/78435.html.

But, then for any systems, there are bound to be skeptics and proponents alike.

chua55 wrote:I would like recommend separate power supply for
1. hdd, cdrom, bluray etc due to dc motor supply
2. cpu, graphics etc.

Hi there,
check out the motherboard from asus :
http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=iHWm73RqE6MCmCtw&templete=2
http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=iIZKMXSj0jZKiebE&templete=2

The AT3IONT-I DELUXE has it's own external power supply. I think this can be used as a silent PC. Unfortunately nobody keep the stock in Malaysia. Anybody interested that I can tumpang.

I've also checked on Kingston 512Gb solid state Hard Drive but the cost about RM4k+..

I just got Audio-Gd usb interface power supply (10V) for my M2Tech hiface Evo. It works fine.

mohfudz wrote:

The AT3IONT-I DELUXE has it's own external power supply. I think this can be used as a silent PC.

Are you sure it would be silent? These mobos have nasty noise generating video processing chips. Moreover, processor is still the 45nm technology.

mohfudz wrote:
I've also checked on Kingston 512Gb solid state Hard Drive but the cost about RM4k+..

I just got Audio-Gd usb interface power supply (10V) for my M2Tech hiface Evo. It works fine.

SSD are expensive and it seems that prices are not south-bound fast enough. Why not use software like JRMC which allows you to stream music via ram loading. This will eliminates hdd interference during playback.

isnt it nice to have a totally silent and direct boot on to player players costing less than RM 800.

chua55 wrote:isnt it nice to have a totally silent and direct boot on to player players costing less than RM 800.

With a SSD, mine would be a completely silent PC with direct boot on to player with cMP. But can't do it at RM800 though. RM800 can only buy you a 64Gb SSD at the most.

Best thing is to boot off a small SSD and pull the media off a network drive via Ethernet.

anyone know where i can buy the Zalman TNN-300 casing, and how much it cost? I think it is out of production, so any old stock or used one?

Is anyone using this ? Any reviews from users ?

carz wrote:anyone know where i can buy the Zalman TNN-300 casing, and how much it cost? I think it is out of production, so any old stock or used one?

Is anyone using this ? Any reviews from users ?

joeling used to own one now replaced by TNN500 if I remember correctly.

j22 wrote:Best thing is to boot off a small SSD and pull the media off a network drive via Ethernet.

How would that help a memory player other than eliminating the mechanical whirling of a HDD?

joeling, where did you buy your TNN-300 and TNN-500 ?
thanks

carz

Just check with the dealer that the TNN-300 and the TNN-500 is still available in Singapore @$999 and $1599 respectively.


The authorised dealer is:


B & H Trading Pte Ltd
#02-18#02-19
Sim Lim Square
1 Rochor Canal Road
Singapore 188504

Contact Tel. No.: 63345168

Sorry only saw this just now. The TNN500 & 300 are discontinued. Only place I saw selling TNN300 is www.endpcnoise.com but they no longer ship to Malaysia

If u are looking for fanless PC enclosure, there is now an alternative. www.hd-plex.com. Just bought 2 cases from them at a reasonable USD258 per piece. However, I have not managed to get the installed MB to work yet. Getting a PC tech to look into the matter. Fingers crossed. These cases can take Intel i3 processor.

Regards,
Joe Ling

This is good info. I am interested to get a backup as well.

tycham wrote: carz

Just check with the dealer that the TNN-300 and the TNN-500 is still available in Singapore @$999 and $1599 respectively.


The authorised dealer is:


B & H Trading Pte Ltd
#02-18#02-19
Sim Lim Square
1 Rochor Canal Road
Singapore 188504

Contact Tel. No.: 63345168

joeling wrote:
If u are looking for fanless PC enclosure, there is now an alternative. www.hd-plex.com. Just bought 2 cases from them at a reasonable USD258 per piece. However, I have not managed to get the installed MB to work yet. Getting a PC tech to look into the matter. Fingers crossed. These cases can take Intel i3 processor.

How much was shipping?

j22 wrote:

joeling wrote:
If u are looking for fanless PC enclosure, there is now an alternative. www.hd-plex.com. Just bought 2 cases from them at a reasonable USD258 per piece. However, I have not managed to get the installed MB to work yet. Getting a PC tech to look into the matter. Fingers crossed. These cases can take Intel i3 processor.

How much was shipping?

I like the power supply they offered, specially the 150W fanless adapter, did you buy the power supply as well?

tycham, thanks.

joeling
The HD-plex looks better for audio (just like an amp or cdp).
which model did you buy and how much is the shipping cost ? What about duties ?

Are there any local distributor HD-plex?

Joe, are you using spdif out to an external DAC ? what spdif hardware are you using ? Any disadvantage HD-Plex against Zalman (assuming you did not have trouble getting it to fire up ?)

guys how about this. designed for bigger TDP using fully aluminium.

That looks interesting. Where to buy ?

chua55 wrote:guys how about this. designed for bigger TDP using fully aluminium.

from china actually. price is quite steep close to 1k due to fully aluminium and the copper heatpipe.

Hi guys,

I've got 2 pc as follows:

1. Win XP, J river 15, onboard optical output (cctv - on 24H)
2. Win 7, J river 15, onboard coax or optical (games - on occasionally)

Both PCs are connected to an external DAC (Naim DAC currently). My question is whether buying USB to SPDIF converter such as M2Tech will further improve the sound?

Please forgive my humble question as i'm very new in this PC based audio system venture.

Many thanks in advance.

San a SSD just make do with hanging the FDD outside the computer chassis with a Granite Digital external PSU!

tycham,
is this your system with teh ZALMAN PC with LCD display ?

Do you mean you use the Granite Digital external PSU for the PC ? Is it switching power supply or linear ?

It's the Zalman HD 160XT Plus with built-in touch screen.

Dedicated linear supply to CPU, peripherals, & sound card(PCI pins for 5V cut-off).

Dedicated linear + pico psu to mobo P24.

Granite Digital for FDD.

DIY linear supply for Zodiac+.

A bit confusing. Can you post some pictures of the insides and the various separate power supply ?

What is FDD ... Floppy disk drive ?

What is the sonic effect of the DIY linear supply on Zodiac+ ...can you post a review ?

carz wrote:A bit confusing. Can you post some pictures of the insides and the various separate power supply ?

Sorry, Don't have photos at the moment. Maybe later.

carz wrote:
What is FDD ... Floppy disk drive ?

Fixed Disk Drive or more commonly known as Hard Disk Drive

carz wrote:
What is the sonic effect of the DIY linear supply on Zodiac+ ...can you post a review ?

It fared worse than a GBP340.00 Paul Hynes' PSU, but better than stock SMPS. Maybe it just sound louder. Very nice ADSR.

Thanks
Can you explain
1) Dedicated linear supply to CPU, peripherals, & sound card(PCI pins for 5V cut-off).
2) Dedicated linear + pico psu to mobo P24.

You mean that the power supply to Motherboard is separate and you have 2 power supply to mobo ? How is it connected ?

Then separate PS to CPU, peripheral and sound cards.

Where did you buy them and what brands and models are they ?

carz wrote:

1) Dedicated linear supply to CPU, peripherals, & sound card(PCI pins for 5V cut-off).

PCI pins cut-off is as shown. There are 4 more 5V pin out on the other side.



A linear +12V, +5V PSU supplying the power to the CPU(+12V) and (+12V,+5V) to other peripherals.

carz wrote:
2) Dedicated linear + pico psu to mobo P24.

You mean that the power supply to Motherboard is separate and you have 2 power supply to mobo ? How is it connected ?

Yes, Linear +12V line powering the pico psu and pico powering the mobo. Like this one here where it is slotted into mobo P24 header and the two cables are connected to the 12V output of a linear supply.

carz wrote:

Where did you buy them and what brands and models are they ?

Mouser.com and brand is SolaHD SLS-12-034T & SLD-12-6034-05T.

Despite building htpc which is expensive, why not settle for like hp mini laptop or mini pc ? i think if noise is a concern, even regular htpc still emits noise unless going totally fan less....

Hi I would like to ask if anyone using FireWire instead of USB? I have an Echo Audiofire2 hooked up to a MacBook Pro running iTunes with Pure Music and recently Audivarna. On both software setup there's the annoying little noises that sounds like clicks similar to what you hear from a scratched up LP. This happens regardless of the encoding of the tracks which are CD sourced. I've ripped into MP3, AAC, FLAC, WAV and AIFF just to try the SQ. It happens whichever the encoding format used. I suspect it could be the FireWire cable which is a generic FW800 9pins to FW400 6pins 2m one. Also the Echo is bus powered although it has the option of an external wall wart adaptor. I can't find much discussion here on using FW, seems more of the USB interface being used? Appreciate the sifus thoughts on this noise problem. Thanks!

Maybe page 10 - 13 of this document would be of some help.

tycham wrote:Maybe page 10 - 13 of this document would be of some help.

Thanks TY. Unfortunately I'm using the MacBook Pro, and I've checked the Mac OS Driver Doc but nothing in there similar to the WinXP doc maybe cos it's using Core Audio?

Ok, I whipped out my old M-Audio FW Audiophile just to see if the same "scratchy LP" syndrome is there. Nope, the M-Audio works just fine, I've thus eliminated:-
1. the fw cable (which I've even removed the power transmission wire and now using the adaptor for both Echo and M-Audio)
2. the playback sw in this case both itunes with pure music (or amarra) and audirvana

The clicking noises are also present from the Echo's headphone out so that eliminates anything downstream (interconnects and the amp not causing it)

I would use the M-Audio but it doesn't sound nearly as good as the Echo. The only things left to try:
1. Another FW cable of higher quality just in case the Echo is more susceptible to noise from the cable itself (but I kinda doubt that, anyway I need to get another one since I already butchered the one I have with the cutting and soldering haha..)
2. Try the Echo on another Mac to see if it's having the same issue. It could be a lemon cos I've trolled many forums and googled but not come across anyone else having this issue with their units.

Seems like most everyone on this thread is on USB DAC. I've read that USB vs Firewire, USB is more jittery thus the need for audiophile quality USB cables whereas it's not so critical for Firewire?

Update: I tried with an older Macbook with 1GB ram and earlier Leopard OSX, the Echo worked flawlessly. So now it's one of two things:
1. The particular FW cable I was using is bad (will get another brand of FW cable to test)
2. The new i7 CPU with Snow Leopard OSX is not working well with the Echo. (Emailed Echo tech support to check).

One thing which I don't understand is if it is working flawlessly on an earlier OS why should it be the cable fault?

Try disabling the other 3 cores leaving only a single core in operation for the Core i7 processor.

Ok, I was using another 6 to 6 pins cable, the earlier cable was 9 to 6 pins. Will try your suggestion on the single core ops. Thanks.

I bought the Wyred4S DAC 2 instead. Still burning it in less than 50 hours at this point but what an improvement over the FW interface! Also sounds better than the CDP when I use the optical out of the CD63 into the DAC2. One question, I'm wondering about the required burn-in time required. The manual states 100 hours minimum before the unit loses harshness and 200 hours before it's working as designed. The dealer said at 400 hours. What's your experience? Does leaving it on without a source running count as burn-in or must a source always be running? And since the DAC2 has like 8 different inputs, will each input need to be burnt in separately?