Re: Rega - discussion thread

[cmboy]

RB250 is as simple as it gets in its design, basic counterweight, cheapest type but useable wires, no frills. RB300 is with spring and dial mechanism, better cable than RB250 (RB301 even better cable) and this opens up some argument which is a better arm. Remember, both were designed for the non fussy TT owner in mind and not intended for serious mods by anyone, just plug and play. But then again, as with all things hifi and clever people around who're never satisfied, mods evolve and come about with claim that they've reached nirvana status with macam macam upgrade. Yes, its all quite possible, not to mention anyone can wreck the arm to beyond repair or make it sound worse too. I think both arms have its strengths and weakness and for greatest potential, the mods have to be quite extreme or its just not worth it with half past six mods. This could mean entire change of internal wires, cartridge clips and cable, some internal damping, a quality underslung weight, the entire removal of spring, vtf adjuster, fingernut, etc. All these is going to cost some money. Then comes the time, why didn't I think of buying the Michell Tecnoarm one shot?.. save all the trouble trying to be too clever. My dua sen.

[wingman]

Hi Kamen...

Yeap, getting one of the gauges may get me a better result As for me would not touch the ARM, i would upgrade the Sub-Platter, Acrylic / glass platter and the counterweight.

Why, Mike gave me a demo of the sub-platter, acrylic / glass platter on my TT and it sure sounded much nicer than my stock gear. HAve not tried the counter weight. Would presume it would make an impact.

cheers

[mugenfoo]

a good digital gauge helps alot and when it comes to VTF, its best to get it precisely, as besides having the correct cartridge performance, it ensures that you are not playing too light or too heavy, both of which would be more physically stressing to your precious LPs.

Be careful of those China-made digital gauges, the load cell/plate does not mimick the LP thickness well. And its looks rather fragile and plasticky built.

A decent digital gauge would also come with a "proof" weight, so u can always verify and re-calibrate if necessary. Different ambient temperatures can affect the readings by as much a +/-0.1 grams.

On the topic of Regas:

it is a common problem for Regas (especially the P5 models) that the Subplatter binds with the plinth. The aftermarket Aluminium billet sub-platter is highly recommended and if it can also fix the "too fast" RPM speed, even better.

The Acrylic main platter also brings sonic improvements but some may find the sound to have detracted from the "Original Rega Flavour".

[cmboy]

duh..so many ploplem with Rega...just buy a Clearaudio, VPI, Technics SL1200 or Michell lor....they're no lonsense TT's.
There's only so much upgrade things (unless Rega supplies some ungrade option, like the motor kit) that can be done to any Rega model and they can be costly. Just remember that any stock Rega is meant for non fussy owners, plug n play, thats quite it.

[mugenfoo]

but thats how this thread got into being ... people are looking at ways to "mod" their Rega's to a higher level ....

Can you say that MyVI are meant for non-fussy owners also ?? If they want a better car, go buy a Altis or Civic or Polo lah ....

But how many "modded" MyVi everyone can see on the road all the time.

"duh" !!

[WongKN]

But cmboy IMHO has a point. Beyond a certain point, the amount spent on mods may be better used if we just top up a bit more and buy an all out better turntable. There are plenty of used LP12s, Roksan Xerxes, Clearaudio around. But then the cycle repeats itself la. People will start to mod those LP12s, Roksan, etc. Hmmm... perhaps the old chinese advice is still the best after all. If bekside itchy, SCRATCH IT. It is much cheaper in the long run !!

[wingman]

Modding something is a natural human tendency.... is to get the little ounce out, after which some will keep and some would sell the modded gear.

As for the upgrade option;

You sure can hear the difference between the glass, acrylic and compressed wood platter.

One is warm, the other is sharp and the last is so so.. Even the sub-platter added on takes it to another level.

Am going for the sub platter as my first upgrade path ( Mike recommends )...then the counterweight.. platter upgrade after which see where my P2 takes me .... a satisfied investment...

Don't forget a good Phono Stage would make an impact as well....

Share the positives and enjoy the music... lahhh

cheers

[mugenfoo]

But cmboy IMHO has a point. Beyond a certain point, the amount spent on mods may be better used if we just top up a bit more and buy an all out better turntable. There are plenty of used LP12s, Roksan Xerxes, Clearaudio around. But then the cycle repeats itself la. People will start to mod those LP12s, Roksan, etc. Hmmm... perhaps the old chinese advice is still the best after all. If bekside itchy, SCRATCH IT. It is much cheaper in the long run !!

That S2000 is still waiting ....

Opps.. sorry, wrong forum.

[WongKN]

Bringing up sad memories I see. Now, if only this certain friend of mine can float me a small interest free loan.....

Ah well, time to scratch ....

[car o scope]

Don't forget a good Phono Stage would make an impact as well....

Very much agree on this.

[sflam]

kamen555 wrote:
Funny if you go to some websites they say the RB250 is a superior arm with the right tweak...

some people say the rb250/251 is the better arm because it has two sets of bearings in the vertical plane while the rb300/301 has only one set of bearings.
that makes the rb250/251 more stable.
and that's why companies like origin live, audio origami and michell modify the rb250/251 arms and not the rb300/301. origin live claims that the modified rb250/251 can sound better than rega's top-end tonearms.

[wingman]

kamen555 wrote:
Funny if you go to some websites they say the RB250 is a superior arm with the right tweak...

some people say the rb250/251 is the better arm because it has two sets of bearings in the vertical plane while the rb300/301 has only one set of bearings.
that makes the rb250/251 more stable.
and that's why companies like origin live, audio origami and michell modify the rb250/251 arms and not the rb300/301. origin live claims that the modified rb250/251 can sound better than rega's top-end tonearms.

No wonder a certain friend of mine was harping on to get the P2 which has a RB250 or 251 arm...advised me not to touch the cables...leave it original and upgrade the rest...and it was something too do with bearings and stability....now to go read the forums ....to get a better understanding ....

Only if I can get rid of the slight wobble with the compressed wood platter of the P2...sure would sound good or better than some other TT's ...

cheers

[adrian4454]

Minor mods that doesnt break the bank account is always a good things la.

Furthermore, the Rega P1,2,3 share so many similar design and quite interchangable between them... it is kind of dumb found to sell of your P2 and go for P3. (often than not, no one will do that)

What CMBoy has narrated is very much on the extreme level of Tonearm mod, which often doesnt justify the cost spend.

I've been told by expert, for P1,2,3.. or maybe even the P5 the captive part is the tt itself. which mean, the platter, subplatter, onboard motor... only then it will come to tonearm. I totally agree with him after trying something out with my tt. If you own these 3 model of the Rega, please dont waste money on better Phonostage and cable, spend more on ur tt and tonearm first.

I've tried the Mike Counterweight upgrade. It truly make an impact. It should be the first that you try..

[kamen555]

If you own these 3 model of the Rega, please dont waste money on better Phonostage and cable, spend more on ur tt and tonearm first.

I agree with this point. Fix the source first, the turntable. Ever since making a few tweaks with the RB300 arm, the music from my setup sounds quite good to my ears and has settled down my burning desire to buy a new amp...heheheheh...with the right in-expensive mod/tweak, the 'itch' can be momentarily stopped (at least long enough to kumpul duit).

[wingman]

Minor mods that doesnt break the bank account is always a good things la.

please dont waste money on better Phonostage and cable, spend more on ur tt and tonearm first.

Hi Adrian...

I would say other wise, I got a CA Azur 640P Phono stage ( average cost ) linked up with my P2 ( un modded ) and u sure can hear the difference. It was far much better then my AMP phono (inbuilt ). ( NAD / Marantz ) The music quality is much more enhanced / clear. Now after two years of usage....its splendid.

For me, its a keeper. Tweaking the stage further from a component perspective would bring it a notch or two up.

All upgrade components are inter linked, adding something along the chain would bring it to another level.

cheers

[adrian4454]

Hi Wing,
Maybe I am a bit too deliberate on saying it is a waste to spend on better Phono pre amp first...
No doubt, a better phono pre amp will bring improvement, but then again ringgit to ringgit comparison.. you will get more sonic performance out with changes of counterweight, off board motor, platter, isolating board. Provided you know where to look for.. haha, again, it goes back to Mike. Thus far, his upgrades are cheapest. Of course, it is a different story if you own a machinging shop.

[mugenfoo]

Just IMO, i always feel the Rega's weakest links are the platter and tonearm (despite how the hifi mags rave and praise about the RBXXX arms.)

But for that amount of money, not much to complaint about. Its still as super budget TT with decent sound that has few competitors in its class. Can't think of any other except Pro-Ject in this category thats available in the local hifi scene.

Too bad Tong Lee prices the Pro-Ject slightly above the Rega price points.

[mugenfoo]

Hi Wing,
Maybe I am a bit too deliberate on saying it is a waste to spend on better Phono pre amp first...
No doubt, a better phono pre amp will bring improvement, but then again ringgit to ringgit comparison.. you will get more sonic performance out with changes of counterweight, off board motor, platter, isolating board. Provided you know where to look for.. haha, again, it goes back to Mike. Thus far, his upgrades are cheapest. Of course, it is a different story if you own a machinging shop.

If possible, U guys should go and explore and hear what a "proper" phono stage can do for your LP playback systems.

IMO, the most basic "decent" type of Phono stage would be the locally made Pipit units. And they need not be expensive either. Used units are traded around less than RM1K. And if ever in need of a "refresh" (recalibrate the balance, recap, or even custom mods to the gain settings), the local designer himself usually gladly obliges.


This handsomely made local homebrew unit will easily surpass the commercial Entry level phono stages like the NAD and Cambridge Audio units. Not to mention, the added flexibility of gain and loading controls which is super critical in LP playbacks.

Delving deeper into it, then there are "multi-curve" phono units for the truly retro LP collectors.

[wingman]

Mugen...

Everyone starts from the bottom up.... i would presume...

Looking at the price of TT's in MY....new or used....other then REGA...

Adrian...

No worries. Everyone has their perception....healthy discussion is good. These are some of the short falls of the REGA....I think we are lucky that a local person is making these upgrade components affordable to the REGA TT owners compared to what you get from the WEB from a pricing perspective.

Not sure how these components would fair against the establish players in the market. But it sure makes a difference from the standard out of the box cofiguration.

cheers

[wingman]

Hi Mugen...

How / Where does one get a NEW Pipit Phono stage.... Email / Phone or any other means

cheers

[cmboy]

Since you have CA 640P, and if still powered by a small wall wart, try it out with a much bigger capacity (80VA) 12VAC transformer. This can easily be DIY. I believe it'll offer more resolve. YMMV.

[wingman]

Since you have CA 640P, and if still powered by a small wall wart, try it out with a much bigger capacity (80VA) 12VAC transformer. This can easily be DIY. I believe it'll offer more resolve. YMMV.

Thanks. Possible that the lifetime might be impacted ?

cheers

[cmboy]

My own phono is done with such and never looked back since. Its not a CA but also require 12V AC power input, moreover I think that was the best basic thing to do, other than more internal mods at the circuitry to my personal liking. Of course there are viable mods for the CA but that requires advance skill to do it. CA is already a good design at its price point. As long as you acquire a quality 12VAC transformer of the suggested size, no harm will come.
If it was up to me to go ultimate in phono stage, then it would likely be in the RM5k onwards price region (used to new) and there's quite a number to choose from. Of course I do have some preferences but not going to discuss it here. Again, whatever I suggest its YMMV, your mileage may vary.
I think there exist a long winded thread on DIY Audio forum about CA 640 mods, go search there.
I'll say again, please be VERY CAREFUL and only if you've the right skills and tools to mod the CA640, DON'T DO IT as you may WRECK the pcb to beyond repair without the proper desoldering station.

[wingman]

My own phono is done with such and never looked back since. Its not a CA but also require 12V AC power input. Of course there are viable mods for the CA but that requires advance skill to do it. CA is already a good design at its price point. As long as you acquire a quality 12VAC transformer of the suggested size, no harm will come.

Where can i get one of these done or do you have the circuit diagram ?

cheers

[cmboy]

Yes, I modded one couple of years back and the outcome was very satisfactory to my ears, and I didn't even change any opamps nor with reaching for the sky mods. I did increase the gain slightly for better resolve.
That was it and it belonged to someone else.

[mugenfoo]

Hi Mugen...

How / Where does one get a NEW Pipit Phono stage.... Email / Phone or any other means

cheers

Yup, just give Frankie a call ....

The power of Google.

http://sites.thestar.com.my/audio/story.asp?file=/1999/3/11pipit

[kamen555]

Hi Mugen...

How / Where does one get a NEW Pipit Phono stage.... Email / Phone or any other means

cheers

Yup, just give Frankie a call ....

The power of Google.

http://sites.thestar.com.my/audio/story.asp?file=/1999/3/11pipit

Thanks Mugen!

[sflam]

mugenfoo wrote:
Just IMO, i always feel the Rega's weakest links are the platter and tonearm (despite how the hifi mags rave and praise about the RBXXX arms.)

hmmm, in that case the strong parts of the Rega turntables are the motor, subplatter, belt, plinth, rubber feet and plastic cover...

if that's the case, there's nothing to rave about the Rega tt.

[mugenfoo]

mugenfoo wrote:
Just IMO, i always feel the Rega's weakest links are the platter and tonearm (despite how the hifi mags rave and praise about the RBXXX arms.)

hmmm, in that case the strong parts of the Rega turntables are the motor, subplatter, belt, plinth, rubber feet and plastic cover...

if that's the case, there's nothing to rave about the Rega tt.

Disagree.

At THAT price point .... what else is there that gives the price/performance ratio of a Rega ?

For example, if the Rega P3 can give 50% the performance of a Clearaudio Emotion, but is only 1/3 the price of a Clearaudio Emotion. Then to fit a certain budget, the Rega is a hands down winner already.

[mugenfoo]

Hi Mugen...

How / Where does one get a NEW Pipit Phono stage.... Email / Phone or any other means

cheers

Yup, just give Frankie a call ....

The power of Google.

http://sites.thestar.com.my/audio/story.asp?file=/1999/3/11pipit

Thanks Mugen!

So far, Frankie's mainstream line-ups have been:

- Pipit (as reviewed in TheStar more than a decade ago)
- Pipit Mk.II (slightly revised model, DIP switches for Gain settings)
- Pipit 2
- Pipit 3 (a custom batch for Tong Lee)
- Pipit Reference (Flagship model, has multi-curve capabilites... i think)
- Pipit 22. (The current model that is on back-order or so i've been told)

[wingman]

Hi Mugen...

A bit of history..........( information derived from the Star ) i called and sent emails to Frankie in my interest in getting one of his Pipit's, not mistaken a Pipit 2. Since there was no response I went ahead and got a CA Phono.

So no regrets in my CA investment,enjoying what i am hearing out of the CA Phono.... as for me getting a Pipit....will wait.... until all the back orders are cleared or if a used unit comes along the way with the right price.... as a second phono in my collection.

To me some of these are keepers ....

cheers

[WongKN]

...
For example, if the Rega P3 can give 50% the performance of a Clearaudio Emotion, but is only 1/3 the price of a Clearaudio Emotion. Then to fit a certain budget, the Rega is a hands down winner already.

I see it this way. The point above is quite true. So what happens is that with the P3, due to meeting a price point, some things are kept simpler and cheaper. This helps the P3 to achieve the favourable performance-price ratio over say the example of the Clearaudio above. However, one of the reasons why the Clearaudio is more than double the price for only double the performance (for e.g.) is that the Clearaudio uses better parts, implementations, etc. I.e. from one angle we can say that Clearaudio did not scrimp so much with all of the components or parts of the TT/arm, unlike Rega who has to come to some for of compromise. So Rega do scrimp on certain parts, areas which they make a decision and say that those parts are not as critical, so the budget is skewed towards the parts which are deem more critical.

When one 'modifies' the Rega TT, say P3, those things which are changed are probably and usually those parts which Rega conciously made a decision to cut back on quality of cost.

It would probably be possible to modify the P3 to get quite near the sound level of the Clearaudio Emotion. But the final cost might possibly get near the Clearaudio as well, if not higher. This is the issue of -

1. Law of diminishing returns : as one gets higher and higher in quality, the proportionate amount needed increases greater. So for double the quality, we usually need to spend much more than double the money.

2. Economic issues of volume : when we modify we buy higher quality parts usually. These are specially made and usually low volume. So cost per unit is usually high, typically higher than say what Rega would incur should they do it themselves because they built thousands of TTs for e.g. but the supplier of mods probably manufacturers at most hundreds of parts at a time. So Rega gets lower cost. HOW MUCH of that cost savings is passed over to the consumer is another matter of course.

Note, this is also probably why sometimes we can use parts from a higher end model in a lower end model to get worthwhile improvements.

[kamen555]

When one 'modifies' the Rega TT, say P3, those things which are changed are probably and usually those parts which Rega conciously made a decision to cut back on quality of cost.

It would probably be possible to modify the P3 to get quite near the sound level of the Clearaudio Emotion. But the final cost might possibly get near the Clearaudio as well, if not higher. This is the issue of -

I agree with this, I see Rega as a starting point, and the gradual tweaks & modifications suit the budget of those who don't have alot of disposable income at any one time (nor a credit card). Like me.

[sflam]

a fully-modified p2 can sound better than a p5 and the total cost can be less than that of a new p5.

[adrian4454]

Hi Lam,
I am always hoping for this statement, I would like to hear,that a fully-modded P1 can rival or outclass a P5... haha... I truly believe this is possible to...

Let see how deep the rabbit hole will be...

And I believe in Miracle~

[wingman]

Adding on...

The mods + P2 could cost lower then a new P3 or P5 ?

cheers

[sflam]

a new p2 costs abt rm1,200. Michael lim's aluminium sub-platter costs rm450. his acrylic platter costs rm395. his motor isolation kit plus labour costs rm345. and his end-stub and underslung counterweight costs rm295.

total cost of fully-modded new p2 is rm2,685.
cost of new p5 is abt rm3,200.

[WongKN]

I find this to be interesting and intriguing.

In the 1st place, it is good news for those of us who are under a tight budget constraint and just cannot afford the more expensive 'higher-end' turntables. But to be honest, it brings up the question of how competent Rega is. That their higher-end models can be beaten so easily by a basic model with some relatively straightforward, and to be honest simple mods. In the first place, is the P5's worthiness over the P2 simply those five things only. It also brings to question about the wisdom of those who bought a P3 or P3-24 over a P2 because for sure a P3 is cheaper than the P5 and if so little things on a P2 can bring so much, then why did Rega bother to have a P3 in the 1st place. All kinds of 'theories' can and are usually forwarded on such matters.

In the end, it is for the owner and individual to decide. One thing for certain is that people like Michael Lim is a god-send, an angel to those vinyl fans who are tight on budget. So people like him are very appreciated. On the other hand, I would think that one needs to also be realistic and perhaps bear in mind that the true worthiness of a P5, or even a P3, may not really be so simply to be overcomed as just a set of 5 items. Surely there must be a lot of other areas these two TTs will be superior over the modest little P2 ?

[adrian4454]

ya, 1 I can think of is.. The P5 is aesthetically more pleasing~
I do believe it is quite easy to build a very competent TT that is very reasonably priced. But takes more money and higher difficulty to make it beautiful and competent~

[kamen555]

I find this to be interesting and intriguing.

On the other hand, I would think that one needs to also be realistic and perhaps bear in mind that the true worthiness of a P5, or even a P3, may not really be so simply to be overcomed as just a set of 5 items. Surely there must be a lot of other areas these two TTs will be superior over the modest little P2 ?

I think we have to consider what is 'better', and there's all the other components to consider. So I don't think its as simple as saying 'the P2 can sound better than the P5 with a few mods'. I think its more: 'the p2 can sound much better with a few mods'.

However it'd be interesting to pit the 'modded' P2 vs the P5. Keeping all other components the same...hmmm

[sflam]

adrian4454 wrote:
I would like to hear,that a fully-modded P1 can rival or outclass a P5... haha... I truly believe this is possible to...

modded p1 outclassing a p5? perhaps not.

but modding the rp1 could be a different story cos the bakelite platter is as good as glass and the new arm is much better than the rb100.

and roy gandy said rega is stopping production of the p2 cos the rp1 sounds better than it.

[adrian4454]

Hi Lam,
Anyway, I am joking around la. I dont care in the end of the day my unit is soundly beaten by others similar pricing or same brand of different model.

I am more happy to know that, my P1 isnt reaching the end of the road for me. There is still sonic gain that I can opt for with interchangable parts out there.

Because before this, I had been depressed by the fact that the P1 was not giving me the performance I needed for hi fi... and I thought the only way up was to sold off the P1 cheaply and fock-out 2~3k for another higher grade tt, or completely sold off all my LPs + TT and concentrate on digital only..
Now, there is still hope, the depression is down... the analogue is flowing again

[sflam]

i think the weakest link in the p1 is the high-density fibreboard platter. change it to the acrylic one and u will notice the diff.
then change the counterweight. massive diff.

actually if u hv the cash, sell the p1 and get the rp1. it's a major improvement. then u can start modding the rp1.

[bassraptor]

Someone should conduct a shoot-out between a fully modded P2, standard P3-24 and standard P-5, using an Exact MM cartridge all around (saved set-up time, too). Then we can have a conclusive finding, rather than hypothesis. Since SFLam appears to be the resident Rega expert, why not he arrange this?

[cmboy]

There's one major area of difference between with P1,P2 thats likely a limiting factor in comparison to higher models. P1,P2 have a much smaller diameter bearing housing, obviously a cost reduction exercise and adequate for the much lighter bakelite or mdf platter as intended. A peek at the bottom will reveal the difference. I think this is one area owners will not do anything to mod. The P3 & P5 bearing housing is a much heavier build bigger diameter brass alloy stub that'll take the mass of the heavier glass platter. P7 & P9 bearing is the ultimate with a metal subplatter and single spindle point bearing much like the LP12.
One thing though, If I'm not mistaken, early Planar 2's (not known as P2 back then) were fitted with the same Planar 3/P3/P3-24 bearing assembly BUT, came with a slightly thinner glass platter than current P3 or Planar 3 had. The early Planar 2's are with a wood plinth surround. I've seen a few exist here locally.

[mugenfoo]

correction. @cmboy is the true resident rega expert here.

thanks for the info , @cmboy !

[wingman]

P1,P2 have a much smaller diameter bearing housing, obviously a cost reduction exercise and adequate for the much lighter bakelite or mdf platter as intended. The P3 & P5 bearing housing is a much heavier build bigger diameter brass alloy stub that'll take the mass of the heavier glass platter.

Hi...

Correct me if i am wrong here....the tone arms are in similar configuration or slightly different but performance wise not much difference... except for the bearing housing... how would this impact... if one changes a glass or acrylic platter from a performance comparison or wear and tear of bearing ?

Yes... the Planars series has thicker plinth then the current P1/P2.

thanks.

cheers

[cmboy]

Rega RB250/300 (most common) tonearms are architecturally the same but I believe there's been some changes in the process of manufacture over 3 decades or eversince its introduction. Differences as in arm tube thickness, bearing quality, the wires n cable, the painted finish,etc. A RB300 made in the early 80's isn't quite identical as one made in the 21st century. If anyone likes to believe the latest one would sound better or worse than the former, then its anyone's guess. I can only guess or be confident the latest ones have better potential. Could it be fair to compare something quite new to something made 30 years ago? I leave that to form your own conclusion.
Also, I've seen different Rega plinth types spread out over 3 decades and there is difference. Early Planar 2 & 3 (except for arm and glass platter thickness, slight cosmetic diff) shared similar parts till after year 2000, when Planar became just "P" and the differences between models became very obvious with very visible differences.
As for bearing, I tend to favor bigger bearing as they're more stable, can take higher mass and contribute to better sonic quality thereon. Bearing assembly is a major contributor to the overall sound quality and I believe the manufacturer place quite a lot of due consideration in this area. High quality TT's will have an excellent designed bearing assembly for sure. Classic examples of heavy build bearing assembly can found in vintage Garrard, Lenco, Thorens and others. They don't build things like these anymore. Consider yourself lucky Rega implemented a reasonably excellent bearing assembly in their TT's thats known to last decades.
Some examples of light build and functional bearing assembly are mostly found in budget Japanese TT's. They're thin walled, lightweight, machined or cast alloy and designed to work with the light metal platter for all intent and purpose. They mostly with sonic quality limitations and merely serve the purpose of LP playback, nothing more. To my limited experience, even a well setup stock P1 or P2 and easily outperform numerous budget Japanese TT's in many areas.

[sflam]

cmboy wrote:
P1,P2 have a much smaller diameter bearing housing, obviously a cost reduction exercise and adequate for the much lighter bakelite or mdf platter as intended. The P3 & P5 bearing housing is a much heavier build bigger diameter brass alloy stub that'll take the mass of the heavier glass platter.

the bakelite platter weighs around 600gms, the 10mm thick p2 glass platter weighs around 1.6kg and the p3/p5's 12mm thick glass platter weighs around 2kg. only around 400 gms diff between p2 and p3/p5 glass platter, so i think the smaller bearing housing of the p2 is due to cost cutting.

wingman wrote:
how would this impact... if one changes a glass or acrylic platter from a performance comparison or wear and tear of bearing ?

i hv been experimenting with the resident rega planar 3 and switching the glass platter with michael lim's acrylic platter. the glass gives a harder and brighter sound, probably due to the resonances of the glass which the felt mat does not fully dampen.
the acrylic platter gives a steadier rhythm probably due to the fly-wheel effect of the platter. it also gives a softer (not in terms of volume, but leading edges of music are rounded off) and smoother sound.

wear and tear of the bearing shld not be a problem if the replacement platter does not weigh more than 2kg.

[cmboy]

Glass platter will offer a harder and splashy sound made even worse with any other hard material mat (cork, rubber, whatever thats harder than felt).
Thats one reason I don't like glass platters. Its all bearable when there's a felt or cotton mat. Any other drawbacks from this combination is another story.

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