Re: Rega - discussion thread

[cmboy]

May I know which model do you own, the P5, P7 or P9?

Why?

[ryder]

Would like to seek your advice, and it would be useful if I know the specific model that you own. If you are not comfortable we can discuss this privately.

[ryder]

Cmboy, sent you a PM.

[Wan Azami Hamzah]

Welcome to vinyl ongaaron,

Congrats on your Rega purchase (no I don't own Atlas Sound). Just make sure it sits on it's own table, a cheap Ikea chipboard one is actually quite good. Spirit level the table in both 90 degree directions (use coins underneath the legs) with the Rega Platter (mat removed) as your surface reference. And away you go.
Don't bother about any more tweaks, just buy more vinyl and enjoy the music.

Your next tweak is upgrade the whole turntable and it should take a while. The Rega is that good. Been using one for 20 years.

Cheers.

Cheers.

[azri]

REGA P9.. ade bran??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/REGA-P9-Turntable-with-Garrott-Bros-Optim-FGS-cartr-/230515555589?pt=AU_Electronics_Home_Audio_Turntables#ht_522wt_930

[kamen555]

Dudes,

I just bought myself a new set of Dali Lektor2 speakers...got it setup last week. They sound great. However, I've noticed the woofers fluttering when I play some vinyl. It's quite prominent when I play slightly warped records. The speakers are dual front ported speakers, is it due to the ports? Or is it due to my amp (Sansui AU 217, 30 Watts) thats straining the speakers? I've re-isolated the TT, and distanced the speakers away from the TT, and this has improved it but there's still slight fluttering on some records. Is it due to the cartridge + arm combination because it's a used Rega P3?

There was none of the fluttering when I was using a fully closed Dali 3B speakers before...Will there be permanent damage to the speakers with the fluttering?

Any help would be welcomed.

[mugenfoo]

the fluttering is due to the subsonics.
Its usually due to a combo of various factors such as :
- tonearm & cartridge combination
- record warpage definitely will cause this.

Rega decks are actually quite forgiving and usually don't pick up as much subsonics as other high end decks.

Nothing to do with the speakers or ports or etc.
Maybe u see the fluttering more on your new speakers is because better speakers tend to reveal more of the audio signals. This is a sign of a more transparent speaker. lower end speakers tend to have more restrictive X-over networks and/or less enthusiastic woofers that actually mask these subsonics .

So maybe the subsonic has always been there. Could be just that your older pair of speakers could not reproduce it to be visually noticeable.

[kamen555]

Thanks for the info mugenfoo.

There's this old Ella Fitzgerald record I play and on its first track the woofers do really dance around abit. But it does sound great though....If the subsonics have always been there, how do I eliminate it? Or is it just normal.

Thanks again.

[mugenfoo]

yes some old & new recordings could have subsonics in them by nature. Usually because the recording engineer botched up during the recording session and wasnt aware of it.

Unless the subsonic is so bad that its causing the woofer to hit the physical stopper, don't worry about it.

Otherwise, some amps or phono stages have a subsonic filter specifically for these problems.

[hoyhoysum]

I guess your amp should be able to reduce the effect or might be your low pass filter not working. Most of the time a squirt of contact cleaner at the high and low pass filter switch will work or some recapped is best preformed for such old amps. IMHO personally i will be worried too to see the woofer moving up and down like that. It will definitely drain a lot of power from the amp. It will be no surprise if your amp heat up more than usual. I believe it will effect the sound produce. Anyway congrats on your new Dali...Do you think time to upgrade your Sansui amp??

[mugenfoo]

I guess your amp should be able to reduce the effect or might be your low pass filter not working.

WRONG. Low pass filters do NOT remove subsonics.
Its the job of high pass (or band-pass) filters to do that.

The subsonic filters found in typical phonostage applications are essentially HIGH-PASS filters that will pass anything from 20Hz (for example) upwards but will cut freqs below 15Hz (for example again) right down to DC.

You can refer back to your electronics textbooks to get your facts straight.

[kamen555]

Dudes,

Thanks for the info guys.

Now I got to aim for a new TT...a P5 mebbe....or a brand new P3-24...

[mugenfoo]

Dudes,

Thanks for the info guys.

Now I got to aim for a new TT...a P5 mebbe....or a brand new P3-24...

If your original recorded source (ie the Ella Fitzgerald LP) has subsonics, chances are that getting a higher end TT will reveal even more subsonics and you might see your woofers doing more cha-cha dancing.... Just for you to take note.

[kamen555]

Dudes,

Thanks for the info guys.

Now I got to aim for a new TT...a P5 mebbe....or a brand new P3-24...

If your original recorded source (ie the Ella Fitzgerald LP) has subsonics, chances are that getting a higher end TT will reveal even more subsonics and you might see your woofers doing more cha-cha dancing.... Just for you to take note.

Mugenfoo,

Dammit, you're right. So I have to be more selective in my LP buying...man, the equipment becomes expensive, and the LPs also become expensive...heheheh...

[chewkwokhon]

Dear Kamen,
Can I hear from you:
1) type of rack used ( post pic if required )
2) make and type of cartridge and is the needle is of original.
3) what is the setting on the counter weight now
4) any modications been done on the stock tonearm before.

A note to be taken, I think you should not jump into buying any new TT. If the present settings have not done properly, the same problem may prevail in your new TT.

[hoyhoysum]

Sorry always got that wrong, low filter and high filter in Sansui term not in high pass filter and low pass filter. I believe Sansui label it as low filter and high filter. Either switch will remove the low rumble and the other switch will remove tape hiss. May someone can confirm this as long time no play Sansui amp....Other option is to diy a rumble filter or go another distance a phonostage...

[kamen555]

Dear Kamen,
Can I hear from you:
1) type of rack used ( post pic if required )
2) make and type of cartridge and is the needle is of original.
3) what is the setting on the counter weight now
4) any modications been done on the stock tonearm before.

A note to be taken, I think you should not jump into buying any new TT. If the present settings have not done properly, the same problem may prevail in your new TT.

chewkwokhon,

1) a wooden table
2) Rega Elyse2 all original just bought early this year
3) 2
4) I didn't modify the tonearm, but the P3 is a used one, I donno how many hands used it already. The plastic that holds the tonearm when it is at rest is a little loose, the previous owner glued it to the TT before but the glue has come loose.

[chewkwokhon]

Dear Kamen,

While you attempt to do the followings, disconnect all power first.

1) You may have to put the Rega TT directly onto the solid concrete/marble floor. Removing the carpet, just to prove a point that your Wooden table is not suitable for this fragile and delicate TT. Your Rega TT will automatically rest properly with 3-point rubber cups to take care of this.

2) Installing any cartridge to a Rega Arm is the most tedious part, as the Headshell is fixed unit of the tonearm. Many a time, to get the proper alignment or distance is like testing one’s patience. The question is: how do we know what is the correct distance. Different cartridges fitted to the same tonearm may varies slightly. To get this done right, you need a appropriate Protractor specifically suited to Rega and its arm.

3) After checking the Web and found that your Elys 2 need only max. 1.75g instead of your setting to 2g. Your lateral/bias setting should also follow to 1.75g. To guide you better, you need an Digital Type, Tracking Force Scale. You also need a well trained hand to get this done right, otherwise, you may accidently damage your precious Cartridge in just a few seconds.

4) A good used unit should not be a big issue. Misalignment can happen at the pivoting point under extreme condition due to rough use, hard knock on the tonearm, etc. The armrest should not be a problem on the quality of music. Just have to be extra careful while the tonearm return properly.

Placement of TT should not be too close or right in front of any speakers. Certain amount of airborne music will transmit through the tonearm and its cartridge. It will eventually feed to the amplifier again. If possible, place the TT farthest away from speakers. Remove the duct-cover temporary while doing this TESTING, this would improve the quality of music very much.

Do not blame your amplifier or the speaker first for this Sub-sonic. This Sub-sonic do not come free-of-charge to you. It is your valuable TT that give it to you. Let’s do a simple test before going further: that while you are not spinning the turntable, switch 'ON' the Amp, turn the Volume up SLOWLY to about say 10.00 o’clock, you should now hear nothing from your speakers. Return the Volume to ‘0’ and you may now start as usual to play your TT.

[mugenfoo]

Dear Kamen,

While you attempt to do the followings, disconnect all power first.

1) You may have to put the Rega TT directly onto the solid concrete/marble floor. Removing the carpet, just to prove a point that your Wooden table is not suitable for this fragile and delicate TT. Your Rega TT will automatically rest properly with 3-point rubber cups to take care of this.

2) Installing any cartridge to a Rega Arm is the most tedious part, as the Headshell is fixed unit of the tonearm. Many a time, to get the proper alignment or distance is like testing one’s patience. The question is: how do we know what is the correct distance. Different cartridges fitted to the same tonearm may varies slightly. To get this done right, you need a appropriate Protractor specifically suited to Rega and its arm.

3) After checking the Web and found that your Elys 2 need only max. 1.75g instead of your setting to 2g. Your lateral/bias setting should also follow to 1.75g. To guide you better, you need an Digital Type, Tracking Force Scale. You also need a well trained hand to get this done right, otherwise, you may accidently damage your precious Cartridge in just a few seconds.

4) A good used unit should not be a big issue. Misalignment can happen at the pivoting point under extreme condition due to rough use, hard knock on the tonearm, etc. The armrest should not be a problem on the quality of music. Just have to be extra careful while the tonearm return properly.

Placement of TT should not be too close or right in front of any speakers. Certain amount of airborne music will transmit through the tonearm and its cartridge. It will eventually feed to the amplifier again. If possible, place the TT farthest away from speakers. Remove the duct-cover temporary while doing this TESTING, this would improve the quality of music very much.

Do not blame your amplifier or the speaker first for this Sub-sonic. This Sub-sonic do not come free-of-charge to you. It is your valuable TT that give it to you. Let’s do a simple test before going further: that while you are not spinning the turntable, switch 'ON' the Amp, turn the Volume up SLOWLY to about say 10.00 o’clock, you should now hear nothing from your speakers. Return the Volume to ‘0’ and you may now start as usual to play your TT.

After having set up some P2, P3 and a P5 to the letter.... here are some comments / additions:

1) Floors and Tables aside ... there is this one magical tool called a "spirit leveller". This extremely rare and special tool can be obtained from your local 5-metal shop (aka hardware / DIY store) for the exhorbitant price of RM20~30 . My personal choice is those made in japan circular ones. Or if you feel the need to buy "branded" stuff, U can get a Clearaudio one for RM100ish .
Place the spirit level on both the plinth and platter to ensure that everything's nicely horizontal. In case the platter never seems to be perfect, thats because its a Rega and you're suppose to accept its imperfections as part of it's "character".

2) Installing a Rega cartridge on a Rega arm is a NO-BRAINER if you are sticking with Rega's geometry. That 3rd middle-screw aligns the Rega Elys nicely to Rega's factory alignment specs on the RB tonearm. Only if you're feeling the desire to deviate from Rega's "Stevenson-like" arc and are adventurous enough to try some Baerwald (aka Loefgren-A) or Loefgren-B arcs (or your own funky derived arcs), then only that specialised tool called a Protractor would be needed. And this would be really challenging due to the lack of a visual marker on the RB tonearm's centre pivot point. So for people using Rega decks with Rega arms and Rega carts, the simplest way is just to stick to that 3 screws mounting method. Everything the Rega stock standard way.

3) Rega's RB arms are a real pain to set in terms of tracking force and bias and here's why: Even when the bias is set to supposedly zero, it still has some residual anti-skate forces. So its a real pain to measure the tracking force. One just hopes that the friction of the stylus whilst landed on a the weighing gauge is sufficient to keep the damned RB arm from swinging outwards. This is the real hazard here. Then once desired weight has been obtained, then only set the bias accordingly. And "accordingly" means NOT by relying on the bias knob's markers but by properly using a test record with its corresponding track, and the signals scoped to see which channel breaks-up first. Personal recommendation would be "The Ultimate Analogue Test LP" from Analogue Productions. If you don't have a scope nor the LP, then you'll have to do it manually and listen real hard with your own ears on certain familiar tracks, and this is provided you know what to be listening out for. If you're still unsure what to be hearing out for, then the 3rd best way would be the groove-less record method. In which you'd use a grooveless surface of an LP (commonly found on Singles LP in which one side is totally smooth), drop the needle on it while spinning and see if the arm swings inwards or outwards. If the arm swings inwards, not enough bias. If outwards , too much bias. Try this for various sections (inner, middle & outer) of the smooth surface. A compromise is usually always the case here. This works nicely for the Rega Elys cart so far, but on certain other brand of cartridges (ie some high end Audio Technicas and benz Micros) which have a very sharp stylus tip, the grooveless method may not be appropriate anymore.

If you STILL cannot do any of the above. Then only set the Bias according to the markers (which I have experienced to be grossly inaccurate at all times) or seek help from people with the appropriate tools and know-how to do this.

Back to tracking forces:
Whats a good trackforce gauge? It need not be digital. The mechanical balance Shure SFG-2 is an excellent unit for its price (easily bought online). Whats more, its measuring area has a nice groove to "catch" the stylus and in the case of the damned Rega RB arm, helps neutralise the arm's tendency to out-swing during measurement.

4) Sub-sonics are due to various factors:
a) - warped LP
b) - Mismatch of cartridge and Tonearm (thats what those tonearm "equivalent mass" and cartridge trackability/compliance specs are for)
c) - Its already present in the original recording.

In case of (a), seek the services of certain LP shops that have a LP flattener machine. These "waffle-press / Panini-Press" machines will safely re-flatten your LPs.

In case of (b), try a different cart/arm combo.
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/tonearmcartridge.html
http://www.resfreq.com/resonancecalculator.html

In case of (c), u can't do much about it except to either bear with it, avoid playing these records, or get a phonostage with a "subsonic" filter feature.

[chewkwokhon]

If one feels the need to change to non-Rega cartridges to be fitted to Rega TT.
What would be the best solution???

[cmboy]

If one feels the need to change to non-Rega cartridges to be fitted to Rega TT.
What would be the best solution???

There's no such thing as best solution. Many have expressed satisfaction for reasons known best to them using various makes and models throughout, and dependent on the rest of the rig, setup conditions and listening enviroment. I could easily suggest Denon DL160 for primary reasons of bang for the buck MC, perhaps underrated with lots of potential, very satisfactory tracking and sonic quality but there'll surely be as many people who'd agree or disagree with me. Then there are vintage Shure V-series which can satisfy, or current Ortofon MC's... take your pick lah.

[chewkwokhon]

When suggestion like Denon DL160 mentioned here. Do you also mean that this Rega/RB300arm combo can take in Denon DL160 as best matched. While Kamen555/I did mentioned here Rega TT also meant Rega P3/RB300.
What is the best match of Phono stage for this DL160??? If a given budget is below RM1000.
I came across sometimes in the past, Passive Phone Stage for MC, which is better when comparing to Active Phono Stage for MC.
I wanted to cut down the risk of choosing one that suits best. A wrong move would make me poorer by RM600.
Or can I use MC without a Phono Stage directly??? To save money???

[cmboy]

Harboring intent to save money in hifi gear (or TT items for this matter) isn't an ideal mindset but a wise decision can bring about untold benefit or satisfaction later on. Perhaps you should go around auditioning for yourself with some cartridges and phono stage that may meet your expectations. I don't think anyone can accurately tell what kind of sonic quality you're looking for and amount you're willing to fork out.
Yes, most people I know like to save money as much as possible but good stuff won't come cheap nowadays, even for used LP's. Least to say that the less if you'd wanna spend least, it'll only limit your choices. Hifi gear isn't cheap in Malaysia well known and obvious reasons. A budget phono say in UK is relatively budget price but may cost 4 figures in Ringgit here. Even that puny simple plasticky Shure stylus force gauge cost 3 figures as seen is some shops. Its only somewhat US$25-35 in the States...small change?

Yes, you'd need a good quality phono stage and equipped with MC stage to cater for various MC cartridges. Passive MC phono is transformer matched and are quite expensive and may be designed for certain cartridge makes. Its a lot more fussy. Active are electronics amplified and mostly compromised to a wider range of cartridges, less fussy (with more expensive phonos having input selectable feature for more a more precise match) MC cartridges can be sensitive to MC stage impedance match but thats another issue/story. A decent phono stage could be the Cambridge Audio 640P which cater to both MC/MM and if you're willing to spend more, go shop around at hifi shops who may suggest something to your budget. Its all too similar like shopping around for CDP and Preamplifier.

[mugenfoo]

Or can I use MC without a Phono Stage directly??? To save money???

Hmmm.... Must be some new radical way to play analog...

[cmboy]

Hmmm.... Must be some new radical way to play analog...

I too have a very vivid imagination when I think I'd want to go on the cheap. Realizing it is another matter.

[chewkwokhon]

I am more confused than before. If I still intended to play LP and trying hard to figure the followings:
MC Cartridge output voltage: 0.25mV
MM input: 2.5mV ( at the amp )
MC input: 60 uV ( at the amp )
What do are these mean? Where do I put this Phono Stage then, if I needed one, hopefully not. Can save some money without buying Phono Stage.

[mugenfoo]

I am more confused than before. If I still intended to play LP and trying hard to figure the followings:
MC Cartridge output voltage: 0.25mV
MM input: 2.5mV ( at the amp )
MC input: 60 uV ( at the amp )
What do are these mean? Where do I put this Phono Stage then, if I needed one, hopefully not. Can save some money without buying Phono Stage.

Wow ..... this is seriously perplexing: The above coming from a dude who gives some feedback/opinion on setting up a Rega, only to ask about Phono stage voltages or the "need" for one?

Nevertheless, ranks super high on the entertainment factor!

[chewkwokhon]

Can anyone offer some form of simple Minglish explanation and not just mere talking.

[hoyhoysum]

Uncle Chewkwokhon, how many of you with the same name?
Earlier you wrote a lenghty essay on how to setup a rega, i thought a pro and old time sifu talking, dun play play....(I thought to myself, maybe i should learn more from this guru since he eat more salt than me) Now different person dun know the difference between MC and MM?Now wanna us to explain in Minglish

[cmboy]

Nothing much to explain, MC cartridge need a matching step up transformer, or MC capable phono stage for playing. Simple as that.

[mugenfoo]

Nothing much to explain, MC cartridge need a matching step up transformer, or MC capable phono stage for playing. Simple as that.

Lagi simple ... just plug in directly into amp. No need phono . save money mah !

[kamen555]

Dear Kamen,

While you attempt to do the followings, disconnect all power first.

1) You may have to put the Rega TT directly onto the solid concrete/marble floor. Removing the carpet, just to prove a point that your Wooden table is not suitable for this fragile and delicate TT. Your Rega TT will automatically rest properly with 3-point rubber cups to take care of this.

2) Installing any cartridge to a Rega Arm is the most tedious part, as the Headshell is fixed unit of the tonearm. Many a time, to get the proper alignment or distance is like testing one’s patience. The question is: how do we know what is the correct distance. Different cartridges fitted to the same tonearm may varies slightly. To get this done right, you need a appropriate Protractor specifically suited to Rega and its arm.

3) After checking the Web and found that your Elys 2 need only max. 1.75g instead of your setting to 2g. Your lateral/bias setting should also follow to 1.75g. To guide you better, you need an Digital Type, Tracking Force Scale. You also need a well trained hand to get this done right, otherwise, you may accidently damage your precious Cartridge in just a few seconds.

4) A good used unit should not be a big issue. Misalignment can happen at the pivoting point under extreme condition due to rough use, hard knock on the tonearm, etc. The armrest should not be a problem on the quality of music. Just have to be extra careful while the tonearm return properly.

Placement of TT should not be too close or right in front of any speakers. Certain amount of airborne music will transmit through the tonearm and its cartridge. It will eventually feed to the amplifier again. If possible, place the TT farthest away from speakers. Remove the duct-cover temporary while doing this TESTING, this would improve the quality of music very much.

Do not blame your amplifier or the speaker first for this Sub-sonic. This Sub-sonic do not come free-of-charge to you. It is your valuable TT that give it to you. Let’s do a simple test before going further: that while you are not spinning the turntable, switch 'ON' the Amp, turn the Volume up SLOWLY to about say 10.00 o’clock, you should now hear nothing from your speakers. Return the Volume to ‘0’ and you may now start as usual to play your TT.

After having set up some P2, P3 and a P5 to the letter.... here are some comments / additions:

1) Floors and Tables aside ... there is this one magical tool called a "spirit leveller". This extremely rare and special tool can be obtained from your local 5-metal shop (aka hardware / DIY store) for the exhorbitant price of RM20~30 . My personal choice is those made in japan circular ones. Or if you feel the need to buy "branded" stuff, U can get a Clearaudio one for RM100ish .
Place the spirit level on both the plinth and platter to ensure that everything's nicely horizontal. In case the platter never seems to be perfect, thats because its a Rega and you're suppose to accept its imperfections as part of it's "character".

2) Installing a Rega cartridge on a Rega arm is a NO-BRAINER if you are sticking with Rega's geometry. That 3rd middle-screw aligns the Rega Elys nicely to Rega's factory alignment specs on the RB tonearm. Only if you're feeling the desire to deviate from Rega's "Stevenson-like" arc and are adventurous enough to try some Baerwald (aka Loefgren-A) or Loefgren-B arcs (or your own funky derived arcs), then only that specialised tool called a Protractor would be needed. And this would be really challenging due to the lack of a visual marker on the RB tonearm's centre pivot point. So for people using Rega decks with Rega arms and Rega carts, the simplest way is just to stick to that 3 screws mounting method. Everything the Rega stock standard way.

3) Rega's RB arms are a real pain to set in terms of tracking force and bias and here's why: Even when the bias is set to supposedly zero, it still has some residual anti-skate forces. So its a real pain to measure the tracking force. One just hopes that the friction of the stylus whilst landed on a the weighing gauge is sufficient to keep the damned RB arm from swinging outwards. This is the real hazard here. Then once desired weight has been obtained, then only set the bias accordingly. And "accordingly" means NOT by relying on the bias knob's markers but by properly using a test record with its corresponding track, and the signals scoped to see which channel breaks-up first. Personal recommendation would be "The Ultimate Analogue Test LP" from Analogue Productions. If you don't have a scope nor the LP, then you'll have to do it manually and listen real hard with your own ears on certain familiar tracks, and this is provided you know what to be listening out for. If you're still unsure what to be hearing out for, then the 3rd best way would be the groove-less record method. In which you'd use a grooveless surface of an LP (commonly found on Singles LP in which one side is totally smooth), drop the needle on it while spinning and see if the arm swings inwards or outwards. If the arm swings inwards, not enough bias. If outwards , too much bias. Try this for various sections (inner, middle & outer) of the smooth surface. A compromise is usually always the case here. This works nicely for the Rega Elys cart so far, but on certain other brand of cartridges (ie some high end Audio Technicas and benz Micros) which have a very sharp stylus tip, the grooveless method may not be appropriate anymore.

If you STILL cannot do any of the above. Then only set the Bias according to the markers (which I have experienced to be grossly inaccurate at all times) or seek help from people with the appropriate tools and know-how to do this.

Back to tracking forces:
Whats a good trackforce gauge? It need not be digital. The mechanical balance Shure SFG-2 is an excellent unit for its price (easily bought online). Whats more, its measuring area has a nice groove to "catch" the stylus and in the case of the damned Rega RB arm, helps neutralise the arm's tendency to out-swing during measurement.

4) Sub-sonics are due to various factors:
a) - warped LP
b) - Mismatch of cartridge and Tonearm (thats what those tonearm "equivalent mass" and cartridge trackability/compliance specs are for)
c) - Its already present in the original recording.

In case of (a), seek the services of certain LP shops that have a LP flattener machine. These "waffle-press / Panini-Press" machines will safely re-flatten your LPs.

In case of (b), try a different cart/arm combo.
http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/tonearmcartridge.html
http://www.resfreq.com/resonancecalculator.html

In case of (c), u can't do much about it except to either bear with it, avoid playing these records, or get a phonostage with a "subsonic" filter feature.

Dudes!

Wow, thanks alot for the wealth of info and tips. I'll try it all out and see what happens. Thanks again dudes, this is why I like these forums, got 1st hand experience and tips.

[maslian]

what else can i do to enhance its performance? Thank You in advance.

black diamond racing rega upgrade kit

p/s. i sold mine

[jengofett]

Dear all,

I have with me a Rega Kyte, a poor man LS35A which has served me well for the last 10 years or so. Its a Naim/Rega/ school of thought where no nosense placement with an open frame would do it justice.

Problem faced is the 4" driver/cone has given me the craclkling sound.... anybody care to assist where can I send to change the driver or any driver will do etc dynaudio for example,
Any good speakers repairer out there.... except for Mr Oh because he is flooded with equipments. Appreciate some feedback.

[bal]

When i was still using boxed speakers with woofer cones, i always use Octave... Yap is friendly and not expensive, and does an excellent job.

His tel is 03-79555755.

Cheers!

Bal

[jengofett]

Thank you sire, i will proceed with the contact. Anyway it may not everyones cup of tea, but it you guys can get hold to one of these baby .... keep it..., it is one of the best partner for the naim school of thoughts...PRAT... on a budget...

[terencebee]

any pictures bro?

[jengofett]

Ok I ll try to upload it soonest.

[kamen555]

what else can i do to enhance its performance? Thank You in advance.

Dudes.

I did a tweak on my Rega RB300 arm. Disengaging the spring mechanism for the VTF of the cartridge (I hope I got that right). Put the knob to the highest (3) and then manually try to set the VTF of the cartridge. WORKS! Better sonics!

http://hi-fi-avenue.blogspot.com/2011/01/tweaking-rega-rb300301-tonearm.html

[adrian4454]

Hi Guys,
Michael Lim has his own website, check out his tweaks.

http://lpturntables.blogspot.com/search/label/Rega

Dont give up on ur Rega yet, even it is a low range model. Even my entry Rega P1 got improvements from his tweak.
First, Do consider the counterweight as your first priority..

[mugenfoo]

so whats the fix for the Regas that always run too fast ? (>33.333rpm)

[cmboy]

I reckon go see Michael Lim? I know he's got a permanent fix and certainly not free.

[wingman]

Hi ...

Anyone knows where to get the "Shure Tracking Force Gauge" locally ?

cheers

[cmboy]

I think I've seen it around but I think you won't like the local price. Check out Ebay and import one, much cheaper. Current exchange rate maybe to your favor. Or buy some digital scale?

[mugenfoo]

Hi ...

Anyone knows where to get the "Shure Tracking Force Gauge" locally ?

cheers

sold mine off to @Hazy last year for the paltry sum of RM50 (i think).

Nice little device and pretty consistent if you're careful not to let the balance's hinges bind to the slots. Accuracy-wise ... in the ballpark of +/- 0.3grams but can be "home calibrated" by adding some weight to the balance tongue and provided u have some reference scale to check with.


Honest suggestion, go buy it online, its small enough to be posted.
No need to pay rip-off prices from CMY thats selling it for RM200~300 when u can get it online brand new for USD 20 odd bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SFG-2-Stylus-Tracking-Force/dp/B00006I5SD

[sflam]

mugenfoo wrote:
so whats the fix for the Regas that always run too fast ? (>33.333rpm)

michael lim has two types of aluminium sub-platters - one has the same diameter as the rega plastic ones i.e. it runs a bit faster than 33.3rpm and the other has the correct diameter so that it runs at 33.3 rpm.

[adrian4454]

yes. sflam is right...
As of the tracking force, I cant help it by telling that I use "flintstone" method. Knowing P1 original setup is to screw the damn counterweight to the max to get 1.75g at the OM 5E stylus.

And judging from how much more gap between the cartridge and the record; that's the reference. So basically, I cant change other type of cartridge~~

Dont you like it when it is so mechanical, that you dont really need any tools for setting...

For those of you who is fanatic about hi-fi art of perfectionist, pls disregard this method.

[mugenfoo]

yes. sflam is right...
As of the tracking force, I cant help it by telling that I use "flintstone" method. Knowing P1 original setup is to screw the damn counterweight to the max to get 1.75g at the OM 5E stylus.

And judging from how much more gap between the cartridge and the record; that's the reference. So basically, I cant change other type of cartridge~~

Dont you like it when it is so mechanical, that you dont really need any tools for setting...

For those of you who is fanatic about hi-fi art of perfectionist, pls disregard this method.

dangerous, but entertaining....

[wingman]

Increase the diameter of the sub platter with rounds of masking tape to make it spin slower. Low cost and gets the job done.

Hi Siva...

Yeah...read that in one of the DIY forums, but another was to add elastic rubber bands on the outer ring of the primary platter.

Mugen / CM...

Thanks.

Yeah...its expensive in MY and even the static gun

What are you guys using for your TT.

My Current practice, manual process. Thought of getting a gauge to help out.

Was reading a few forums and have come across two different versions of the SFG2 - ferrous and non-ferrous. Either one gets attracted to magnet which could affect the MC stylus / cartridge calibration.

There are Pocket - Digital scale ( anti magnetic ), an easier approach rather then manual and some very good Digital scales which are available from the WEB less than US$10.00 to US$15.00 dollars.

cheers

[kamen555]

What are you guys using for your TT.

Currently not using any gauge or anything, just lok at the stylus, see how bent it gets...not scientific at all and hopefully not dangerous to the records... higher vtf is better than less vtf right? I am also in need of a gauge (a reasonably priced one la...) to help with this...haven't asked the hifi shops yet about their pricing...takut la, sure mahal!

To reiterate, the disengaging of the spring on the VTF knob of the RB300 is a really-really good tweak in my opinion. I wonder if it works for the RB301 also... Funny if you go to some websites they say the RB250 is a superior arm with the right tweak...

[Sponsored content]